Remove cured Danish oil from tiles

1

by

Chris H

Last Updated March 12, 2016 07:09 AM

My worktops are treated with Danish oil, and I appear to have got some on the tiled splashbacks and not noticed until it's cured (it's not very obvious except in daylight, I oiled by artifical light).

Is there any way to get it off? I don't want to use a blade until I've got an idea of how to get the residue off where the blade won't attack it.

It's not going sticky, so not a duplicate of How to solve the problem of sticky Danish oil?.

Answers 3

I would trying using Mineral Spirits with a scrap piece of cloth or a toothbrush/brush to scrub if need be. Mineral Spirits is used to clean brushes and other finishes from other things, so this may be something to try.

Markpelly
January 29, 2016 19:42 PM

Mineral spirits won't work. You need something stronger like acetone. If you have ceramic tiles they won't be harmed.

mike
January 29, 2016 20:27 PM

I...

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Removing excess Danish oil after applying it to wood is straightforward, if a little messy. Regarding Danish oil spills, you should attend to them quickly. How you dispose of old Danish oil is partly dependent on your local authority. However, there are specialised companies who will come and remove it from your property, for a fee. In this case, ensure you choose a company with a well-established reputation for ethical disposal.

Excess

Danish oil is used to treat timber, such as wooden floors and worktops. According to Anglo Building Products Ltd., you can remove excess Danish oil that has been freshly applied to a wooden floor with a squeegee and cloths. Gather the excess unabsorbed Danish oil together by dragging the rubber blade of the squeegee over the floor. Form a pool of the oil to facilitate more efficient removal. Wipe up the oil with dry, lint-free cloths.

Cured

Danish oil enters the porous surface of the wood and deposits a resin coating....

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Pour a dab of Danish oil onto the wood item directly, or blot it onto a lint-free cloth. Liberally apply the oil to the wood, rubbing it into the surface with the cloth. Remove excess oil after 20 minutes by wiping with a clean rag. Let the wood dry for 24 hours and reapply a second coat in the same way as you did the first, removing excess oil after 20 minutes with a clean rag and letting it dry for a full day. On day three, add another coat and remove after 20 minutes, allowing 24 hours for it to dry. Once the wood takes on a wet look and stops absorbing oil, usually by the third coat, allow it to cure until it is not wet to the touch. If you desire a smoother finish, after each coat has cured, sand with 400-grit wet-dry sandpaper. As a final finish, apply a hand-rubbed paste wax for...

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Alicia asked: I have been trying for over six months to remove some engine oil from the bathroom floor tiles. Can you please help me? I have learned that I will never put my child in the shower with oil all over her.

Motor oil has a consistency that makes it difficult to remove as it easily spreads over the surface. It’s designed to lubricate so it doesn’t wipe clean very easily. To remove it, it requires a cleaning substance that can break it down or absorb it for removal. There are several products that can be used to achieve this. Try one, or try them all, until the oil is removed.

You Will Need:

Dawn dish soap Rubbing alcohol Aerosol brake parts cleaner Hot water Bucket Soft cloths or sponges White paper towels

Steps to Remove the Stains:

Begin by filling a bucket with hot water. Add Dawn dish soap to the water and agitate to mix. Add more Dawn for larger areas and less for smaller stains. Moisten a soft cloth or sponge with the mixture and apply it...
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I am refinishing a cabinet with a barn wood plank top. After sanding it down to 220 grit I applied a coat of linseed oil. Unfortunately while at work today it rained, and while it wasn't directly exposed it got wet enough to raise the grains.

Sanding oily wood will quickly ruin your sand paper. However, whether it should be resanded depends on how much you care about the finish. As a matter of practice, when I make "fine" wooden pieces, I purposely wet the wood after my first 220 sanding; after allowing it to dry, I sand off the fibers (or grain as you mentioned). And I sometimes repeat the wet, dry, and sand routine if I really need get rid of those fibers. I do this so that few fibers appear if the wood accidentally gets wet, or especially if I am planning to use a water based polyurethane to seal it.

Ben Welborn
March 15, 2016 17:23...

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topic 16383

A discussion started in 2001 but continuing through 2017

Q. I have an old dresser that I have stripped the varnish off of and found motor oil had been spilled on it. How do I get the oil stain out as it has penetrated deeply into the wood. Also on the bottom side of the dresser is water stains, how do I remove these?

Thank You,

Jim H [last name deleted for privacy by Editor]
- Diamondville, Wyoming

A. Hi,

We had a similar problem with a motor oil stain on an old table my wife wanted to refinish. Unfortunately the oil stain was on a part where the original finish was almost totally gone and it soaked into the bare wood.

We found an answer on the "Oxi-Clean" web site and it worked for us. Make a strong solution of OxiClean [linked by editor to product info at Amazon] (2 scoops to 16 oz of water) and apply just enough of the solution to the stain to cover it thoroughly. Use a stiff bristle brush to scrub the stained area and wipe clean...

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A superior penetrating linseed oil finish that is polymerized for fast and easy application on interior woodwork and furniture. It is also ideal for wood paneling, cabinets, salad bowls, wood utensils, butcher blocks and surfaces that come in contact with food. Danish Oil Finish is commonly used by woodworking professionals for application to bare wood or overtop an already-stained piece. Danish Oil will darken the wood slightly and can be combined with oil-based pigments to create wood stains.

Danish Oil Application Instructions

For all INTERIOR woodworkingApply a very thin coat across entire piece with a lint-free cloth at room temperature. DO NOT USE A BRUSH! A dry to wet color change in the wood should occur, but at no point should there be any puddling. A little bit of finish will go a long way!Allow Danish Oil to penetrate the wood for a minimum of 5 minutes.Rub in briskly with a lint-free cloth until the surface is completely dry. DO THIS BEFORE YOU LET THE PIECE...
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Guitar building tips

Finishing the body and the neck with Danish Oil saves time, gives good results and can therefore only be recommended. Danish Oil is an oil-varnish blend. It cures to a satin sheen and is much more protective than boiled linseed oil while being just as easy to apply.

Instead of buying Danish Oil you can make your own by mixing one part of varnish, one part of boiled linseed oil and one part of mineral spirits. It's always a good idea to pour varnish and oil through a paint strainer to remove impurities and undissolved residue.


Preparation

By gently wiping the surface with special cloths even very fine dust particles can be removed. Such useful, slightly adhesive cloths are available wrapped in foil from paint stores.


First and second coat

Apply plenty of oil with a cloth, wipe off the excess after about 10 minutes and then allow to dry for several hours or overnight. Store the oily rag in an airtight closed...

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Cooking oil can loosen the adhesion of the glue to the tile's surface. Start by saturating the spot with oil. Let it soak into the adhesive for at least 10 to 15 minutes. Using the oak stick, gently work the adhesive off the tile. Do not press too hard as the top layer of the tile might come off. If necessary, repeat the soaking procedure. Use a paper towel to clean up the excess oil, and then use soap and water to remove the residue. Dishwashing liquid is effective against oily residue.

Acetone is another option for removing the glue. While wearing gloves, moisten a clean rag with acetone. Use a circular motion to rub it over the tile glue, which should come off right away. Use soapy water to remove excess acetone from the tile's surface.

It may be necessary to use stronger chemicals for larger areas. Solvents such as lighter fluid, paint thinner or mineral spirits can remove large amounts of tile glue. Soak a cloth in one of the solvents and lay it over the glue for...

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all throw this addresses floor title it may be worth a look =====found this on a search ---------I have lot of sympathy for anyone who has attempted to remove cured grout from the surface of tiles. Having tried all of the 'home-depot' solutions, I too thought it was 'impossible' to remove grout once it has cured. Not so anymore, as I have successfully removed fully cured grout (14+ days to bond) of the surface of textured 13X13 tile by using a regular electric drill, a shopvac and the kind of steel- or copper brushes that are intended for removing corrosion on metal. As long as the rpm of the drill is high enough, the grout comes off without any resistance. More importantly, I have not scratched/dulled a single tile in the process. The only drawbacks that I have encountered so far are as obvious as they are manageable: the removal of grout with a rotating tool produces a lot of airborne materials which are harmful if inhaled and very unpopular once they have settled as dust...

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So what does this tell me:

1) There must have been some contamination on the maple 335 that stopped wudtone colour taking.

2) My usual methods for removing contamination (tried on the black guitar) won't work with wudtone, but will be fine for other types of finish.

3) Wudtone really does look great on swamp ash and I may come back to it for that

Hi Wez, well thank you for going to all that effort and sorry those guitars haven't worked out as you had hoped. With a single coat ( even if it wasn't deep colour coat) the coloration on the bare/porous samples of ash, alder, maple appear to be about right.

I think we just need to agree to disagree on one key point. I think it is an important point for Mudslide , indeed anyone who doesn't want to limit their options ( particularly with colour) when refinishing. Your method for removing contamination ( ie a good rub down with thinners ), I don't actually agree removes contamination. I think it just...

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Oil-finished hardwoods like this beautiful walnut featured on Houzz.com are popular for their natural appearance.

Back in July, we took a look at the many options available for non-urethane hardwood finishes. Among these, we briefly discussed penetrating oil sealers, which have been quickly gaining in popularity as natural and vintage looks have become increasingly desirable. In fact, natural oil finishes have been common throughout Europe for quite some time and are used on about a third of hardwood floors there. Consequently, many of the most trusted brands we use here in the U.S. were developed my manufacturers across the pond. In this post, we will take a closer look at what makes natural oil finishes so appealing, their advantages and disadvantages, as well as some popular brands.

Penetrating oil sealers come in two basic varieties, natural oil and hard wax oil finish. The specific kinds of oils used and their proportions are what differentiate one brand from...

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Cleaning slate isn’t too difficult. It’s vital, however,to know what kind of dirt or contaminant you are trying to remove before you can make a decision as to which cleaning product is best suitable.

Slate comes in many different colours and finishes. Some of these are smooth whereas others have a textured surface. Undoubtedly, slate is a very popular material for flooring right now.

Slate generally has good resistance to mild acids so this gives you a much wider choice of cleaning materials than you would have with more acid-sensitive stones like limestone or marble.

So, how do we go about cleaning our slate floor?

First, you need to check whether the contaminant is mineral based? e.g. grout staining, cement, rust or general dirt. If it is, you would be advised to use a mild acid cleaner such as one based on phosphoric acid. Beware though as any acid cleaner may etch the grout also.

In most other situations where you have, for example, general...

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