Remove outlet from switch


Your going to have to look in the electrical boxes that the switch and the outles are contained. First turn the breaker off that is supplying power to the room. Then unscrew the outlets and look into the boxes.

There might be some wires in these that are capped off with wire nuts. The outlets might have once been wired as electricbill said(top recpt switched, bottom always on, or vice versa). If you see wires in there you will need to check all of them for power. If you find live wires you might be in luck and won't have to run any new cable.

Also you need to look behind the switch. You probably have one live set of wires coming into the switch box, and one or more set going to the outlets. If you have more than one set going to outlets, they you might also be in luck. You would have to figure out where these wires go and wire the ones you want switched to the switch and the others directly to the power wires.

In any case, you can probably set up your room...

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The light switch, if you open it up, will have three wires coming out of it: one going in to supply the switch, and two going out: one for the lights, one for the outlet.

Determine which is which, outlet vs. lights. It may be as simple as seeing that one wire goes out through the bottom of the electrical box, toward the outlet. That's probably the one you want.

Turn off the breaker so you don't die.

Take the wire that goes down to the outlet off of the switch, and move it back onto the switch where the supply wire is connected.

Tighten all the screws back down. Reinstall the cover. Job's done.

What you've done is put the outlet's feed onto the same screw as the switch's feed - essentially, making the switch's terminal also serve duty as a wire nut. Strictly speaking this may violate code; the wires should be spliced in a wire nut and a single wire hooks up to the switch. But we're being quick and dirty here and codes vary depending on the jurisdiction....

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Posted by TheKimSix Fix on 5:00 AM in DIY Electrical Email Nursery
This post may contain affiliate links

When I made over the

baby’s nursery

I painted the area on the wall below the chair rail white. Therefore the ratty old off white outlets looked horrible.

Back when I was actually finishing the room what I decided to do was just replace out the switch plate covers and then hide the outlets behind the furniture. (#KeepingItRealwithKimSix) but today I finally got off my horse and decided to suck it up and replace the outlets themselves.

I have to admit they were REALLY bad.. I am pretty sure drunken monkies painted the room or something since they had about 4 layers of paint on them.

Now there are 10,000 tutorials out there on how to replace your electrical outlets. My

personal favorite

is from my favorite DIY-guru Brittany.

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There will again be at least one 2-wire cable plus the new 3-wire cable you have installed. If this is a multiple switch location (more than one switch in one box) there will be other cables, and the cable that is bringing power into the box must be located. This cable will almost certainly have multiple short wires spliced to it, one wire for each switch.

Splice all ground wires together, with a pigtail added. Splice the black power wire and the black wire from the new 3-wire cable together, with a black pigtail added. Splice all neutral wires together, but without a pigtail. The black pigtail will terminate on one of the switch screws and the red wire on the other. The ground pigtail goes to the green ground screw on the switch.

At the outlet box, if there are cables other than the new 3-wire you have added, splice them together by color. Black wires together, white wires together and all ground wires (including the one in the 3-wire cable) together with a pigtail....

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It is a false premise. Most UK socket-outlets are double. Although switched socket-outlets are in the majority, unswitched sockets are readily available, perfectly legal, and not uncommon. There is a misconception that the switch has something to do with safety, but the only real safety function for a switch was in the days of DC mains supplies.
When a plug is removed from a DC socket there is a tendency to arc, to combat this, early British plugs were equipped with enlarged discs to shield the hand from the arc flash during withdrawal, these were termed "handshields". Later, the incorporation of toggle switches (with "snap action" and double break mechanisms greatly reduce arcing), in sockets became a common way of combatting the problem. The switch was set on only after the plug was inserted, and off before withdrawal. To improve this still further there were a number of interlocked socket-outlets developed in Britain, these would not allow plug insertion or withdrawal...

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Clarification of Definitions and Terminology


White wire that carries the unbalance load between two hot (ungrounded conductor) A neutral must be serving two ungrounded conductors (a.k.a. hot conductor) that read 240 volts between those two ungrounded (hot) conductors.

A Grounded Leg

White wire that serve only one ungrounded conductor (a.k.a. hot conductor)

A Switch Leg

Those ungrounded conductors (a.k.a. hot conductors) installed between the light box and any switch box.

Note: A switch leg does not contain a grounded leg (a.k.a. neutral) or true neutral conductor but contains only ungrounded (a.k.a. hot) conductors whether constant hot conductor feeding the switch power or intermittent hot conductor feeding the light from that switch.

Notice this switch leg is either an ungrounded conductor (a.k.a. hot conductor) or an intermittent ungrounded conductor (a.k.a. intermittent hot conductor) energized with power only...

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–Check local regulations for restrictions and permit requirements before beginning electrical work–

This page contains several diagrams for wiring a switch to control one or more receptacle outlets including a split receptacle and multiple outlets wired together.

Switch Loop to a Receptacle Outlet

This wiring diagram illustrates wiring a light switch to control an existing receptacle outlet. The source is at the receptacle and a switch loop is added to a new switch. The hot source wire is removed from the receptacle and spliced to the red wire running to the switch. The black wire to the switch connects to the hot on the receptacle.

The source neutral wire on the receptacle is removed and spliced to the white running to the switch, and to a pigtail back to the receptacle neutral. At the switch, the neutral wire is needed to power some dimmer switches and is now required in most switch boxes.

Switch First

This wiring illustrates the...

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Instructions on how to wire an outlet where one part is always hot and the other part is controlled by a switch; called a half hot outlet.

Many times people would like to have an outlet controlled by a switch to be able to turn on a lamp or some other device. Sometimes they have a switched outlet, but it is in the wrong location, or they would like to plug in another device that they would like to remain on all the time. A situation like this calls for a half hot outlet where a switch controls the top half of the outlet and the bottom remains hot all of the time.


As always when working on electrical systems turn off the power to the circuit at the breaker panel or remove the fuse for older electrical systems.

If you have an outlet that is switched, you will still need to run a new wire with two hot conductors and one neutral and one ground, 12-3 or 14-3 wire. The “3” stands for 3 conductors, black, red, and white. The red wire is required to...

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Electrical wiring device with switch and plug.1) Polarized outlet has a wide blade and narrow blade.
Black Hot wire from breaker box connects to screws that are on same side as narrow blade.
Notice also that screws on Hot side of device have a break-away fin. If fin is removed, then add a wire that connects both screws.
Each 120volt electric box has only 1 Hot wire that tests 120V to ground wire.

Load wire going to light connects to brass screw opposite the switch.
White neutral wire connects to silver screw opposite the outlet. Neutral wires are the white wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut and pushed to back of electric box. If box does not have neutral wires, the outlet will not work.

Combination switch outlet
Read about 120Volt circuit

Break-away fin
Add jumper wire if break-away fin is removed on Hot side of device.
Do not add jumper wire on other side of device. How to...
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If an outlet (commonly called a receptacle) no longer holds a plug snugly, it should be replaced. The procedure for replacing a duplex (two-outlet) wall receptacle is similar to that of replacing a switch. The only difference is that, depending on where the receptacle is located in the wiring scheme of your house, it may have more wires attached to it than you find attached to a light switch.

Credit: ©

Look closely at the terminal screws of the new duplex receptacle. On each side of the receptacle is a pair of terminal screws. The upper screw is connected to the upper outlet, and the lower screw services the lower outlet. A thin, metal break-off tab connects these screws. This tab enables you to attach a single wire to either screw and feed electricity to both outlets of the receptacle. If the tab is broken off, you can connect the upper and lower outlets to separate wires and control them independently.

If the receptacle is wired to...

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Determine which devices are not connected to GFCI.

Some devices should not be connected to GFCI receptacles because of the possibility for "nuisance tripping"; for example, refrigerators, fluorescent lights, laser printers, garbage disposals, trash compactors, dishwashers, clothes washers and dryers, home heating and cooling systems, artesian well and driven point jet type pumps,microwave ovens and freezers are some of the more commons items.

For switches: Label the wires with some sort of identifying mark on masking tape wrapped around each wire. Use the same mark for each wire connected to the same terminal screw of the device Determine the type of switch you have. A single-pole switch (one switch controls the light fixture(s)) will have two screws and be marked "ON" and "OFF" if a toggle type, a 3-way switch (two switches control the light fixture(s), typically at each end of a stairwell) will have three screws, one of which is black, and a 4-way switch (three switches...
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Study the diagram below, photos and step by step procedure before attempting. Do not attempt unless you have a complete understanding of the job.


Shut off power to the circuit.


Test the circuit with a tester or lamp prior to working to be sure power has been removed.


Remove the wall plate from the receptacle and save the screws for reuse.


Unscrew the receptacle from the box and save screws for reuse.


Pull the receptacle gently but firmly away from the box.


Identify each terminal screw with a number written on masking tape, affixed close by. A booklet of adhesive numbers (like that in the photo) is great aid for a job like this.


Mark the silver or white terminals with even numbers 2 and 4; the green safety ground terminal (if provided) should be marked 5. The gold terminals on the other side should be marked with odd numbers 1 and 3. Be sure to...

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A unique spin on magnetic toys, Switch & Spin Magnetic Gear Board lets kids build their own toy! Simply choose a picture template from 10 unique designs and place it in the wooden frame. Then add the gears in the color-coded spaces to turn each picture into an amazing kid-powered machine! Or, remove the templates to reveal the white magnetic surface -- perfect for an open-ended exploration of simple mechanics, or a range of counting, adding, and problem-solving activities (instructions included). This sturdy, durable gears toy includes a magnetic board with wooden frame, eight magnetic pegs, eight colorful gears, and five double-sided, color-coded design templates.

Item #...

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