Removing bulb causes a different fixture to go out


I have ceiling fixtures, let's call them A and B. Normally, both fixtures are always on (lit) -- no switch controls them.

When I remove the bulb from A, fixture B goes out.

Here's how it looks inside the junction box that feeds both fixtures:

Fixture A is at the top of the box. Fixture B is the one on the bottom (I think, not 100% sure about that.)

As you can see, the white wire from Fixture A is connected to the other white wires in the junction box. That makes sense.

But, the black wire from Fixture A is jumpered onto a white wire, that's then connected to the white wire on Fixture B.

What's going on here?

I plan to put motion-detector bulbs in both fixtures, so I want them both hot all the time.

Can I just remove that white jumper wire and connect the black wire to the other black wires?

I have confirmed that there's nothing wired downstream from the Fixture A box - the wires terminate...

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If you compute the average life of your bulbs and discover it's clearly less than the manufacturer's rated life, then you may have:

* You may have over-voltage in your house. Occasionally this causes more serious problems. You can get a cheap multimeter at Radio Shack. If the voltage is 125V or higher, talk to the power company about it. 7 or 8 extra volts on a 120V line will cut the bulb life expectancy in half. If it's a slight over-voltage, you can buy special 125V or 130V bulbs, though sometimes they're hard to find.
* Too high a wattage bulb in too small an enclosed fixture (such as a globe), the heat can't get out--the bulb burns too hot, leading to short bulb life.
* Recessed lighting fixtures often get covered by attic insulation. This blocks the intended ventilation method--heat can build up around the bulb, causing short bulb life.
* A vibration problem. Such as, bulbs under a heavily used stairway, on or near an out of balance bathroom or...

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Light Bulbs Burning Out Fast TIPS

DEAR TIM: Four of the six bulbs in the recessed lighting in our kitchen ceiling keep burning out. I just replaced one and it burned out in an hour. I am using 65-watt bulbs. Our house is only three-years old. Are the bulbs the wrong size? Is there a problem with the wiring? Cory Dixson, El Dorado Hills, CA

DEAR CORY: The problem with the premature failure of the light bulbs has nothing to do with the wattage or the wiring. My first guess is that it can be traced to the person who has installed the light bulbs or previous owners of your home. I think they are twisting them into the socket too tightly.

The flickering of light bulbs in lamps and fixtures can also be caused by bulbs that have been installed too tightly into light fixtures.

Brass Tab

Look right in the center of the photo. You can clearly see the brass tab and if you look closely you can see it is raised up off the bottom of the socket. © 2017 Tim...

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Light Bulb, Lighting Fixture and Lamp Troubleshooting

Troubleshooting Light Bulbs, Lighting Fixtures, and Lamps

What the "Big Three" (better) Lightbulb Makers Are
Troubleshooting incandescent lightbulb problems
Troubleshooting halogen lamp problems
Troubleshooting fluorescent lamp problems
Troubleshooting mercury, metal halide and sodium lamp problems

Slight update 11/20/2006.

Yes, I am aware that in the USA technical types outside the automotive industry typically call a lightbulb a "lamp".

What the "Big Three" (better) Lightbulb Makers Are

By the "Big Three" light bulb manufacturers, I mean General Electric, Osram/Sylvania, and Philips. They are the main producers of good lightbulbs in the USA.

Please note that store brand lightbulbs with lumen light output figures and hour life expectancy figures like those of "Big Three" actually are "Big Three" lightbulbs.

"Big Three" "regular" (A19) lightbulbs will usually...

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If you have several fixtures in your home that go through light bulbs within a few months, then the problem may be that you have too much electricity entering your home. Although we’ve been taught that electricity flows into our homes at a steady 120 volts, that’s not always the case. Sometimes a house is actually a little overpowered. For nearly everything else in your house that runs on electricity, this isn't an issue, but for light bulbs, it can seriously shorten their life spans. If you think this may be the problem, purchase a voltage tester to check the voltage of your home. Fluctuation is normal, but if you see a voltage that typically hovers above 125, chances are you’ve found the culprit. In most cases, the best thing to do is swap out your 120 volt bulbs with 130 volt bulbs. But if many of your fixtures are producing burned out bulbs, it may be a more long-lasting solution to call an electrician for advice about correcting your voltage supply.

Fixtures or Wiring...

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Bulbs that are exposed to the air cool rapidly upon shutdown and destroy the metal to glass seal at the bottom. When that seal is broken, air enters, and the bulb then burns out.

Bulbs that are in enclosed fixtures last for years of usage, even switching them on and off several times a day, that is because these bulbs do not experience that rapid thermal change which destroys that glass to metal seal at the bottom end of the bulb.

You most probably have an open type fixture, so in your case the exposed bulb is the reason.

Point also to be made, is that Your fixtures socket for the bulb probably has a low "mass" right where the bulb screws into the fixture. This low mass or weight here allows that area to cool rapidly on shutoff and with that mass the lower end of the bulb also cools rapidly and destroys that glass metal seal. The old fixtures, had a very heavy mounting area compared to your new fixture. They got hotter down there and stayed hotter after shut off....

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Almost every house has one or even a few light fixtures that burn through light bulbs faster than all of the others combined. The problem is often blamed on "faulty wiring" in your house, a diagnosis so vague as to be meaningless. The truth is--the most common causes of a faulty light fixture have nothing to do with your home's wiring and they're usually easy to fix.

Too Much Juice

If you have several light fixtures in your home that are going through light bulbs at a rate of one every few weeks, or even every few months, the problem may be too much electricity coming in. We've been taught that electricity flows into our homes at a steady 120 volts, but that's not always the case. Often a house is actually overpowered, so to speak. For just about everything else in your house that runs on electricity, this isn't a problem. But for light bulbs, it can seriously diminish their life span. Use an electric meter to test an outlet in the room or rooms where you have faulty...

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You may think that your eyes are tired or they’re playing tricks on you, but if you notice light bulbs or lamps flickering while lit, there may be an underlying cause that you should investigate. It could be a simple fix or the problem could be a more serious issue.

You’ll learn the simple and not-so-simple issues that could be causing your flickering lights. Once you know three causes of flickering bulbs, you’ll be able to investigate the light to determine whether it’s something you can fix yourself or something an expert should check.

1.Loose Bulb

If the electrician suspects exterior issues outside your home, call the electric company to examine your electric cables outside the house.

The simplest cause of a flickering light bulb could be a loose bulb in the socket of the light fixture. Turn the light fixture off and gently grasp the light bulb to tighten it slightly. It’s not necessary to tighten it strenuously – simply making sure the...

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How to fix light bulbs in a light fixture that keep burning out? If you have one or more light fixtures in your home or apartment that burns out light bulbs fast, here are some solutions. Changing light bulbs that burn out is a fact of life, but what if one certain light fixture constantly burns out light bulbs? What could be happening with the light fixture that causes the bulbs to burn out faster than the rest of the house light fixtures? Could it be an electrical problem? Bad light bulbs to start with? Is the light fixture getting too hot? Could the bulbs be screwed in too tight? Is the light fixture installed properly? We will answer those questions below.

Light bulbs keep burning out in light fixture

Are my light bulbs screwed in so tight it causes them to burn out faster?

If you screw a light bulb into the socket too tight, this can make them burn out faster. At the bottom of the light fixture’s light socket is a brass tab. This brass tab is flexible....

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Return to Electrical Article List

On the home repair scale of 1 to 10 (10 being hardest), repairing a fluorescent fixture is a 3 or 4... fairly simple but some basic electrical skills are necessary, such as being able to identify wires by color, stripping insulation from the ends of cut wires, installing wire nuts and reading instructions. I added the first and last with tongue in cheek... I know most of you are not color-blind and most of you can read... or you wouldn't be here!

Here are some common fluorescent freak-outs and some suggested solutions! Note that I will be primarily referring to fixtures using straight fluorescent tubes in this discussion. Curved tubes work in a similar fashion but have different mounting methods.

I use the term "bulb" and "tube" somewhat haphazardly and inconsistently. My apologies. Both are correct, though "tube" is the more correct term and probably a little less confusing.

Fluorescent bulbs designed to replace...

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We recently received a request from a customer to remove a stuck light bulb. This is a common occurrence for many homeowners, so I’ll share a couple of methods that might be useful to remember – suction cups and duct tape. Remember to be careful when you use them, because if you break the bulb, it may be even harder to remove.

The first step is to be sure the power is off. For lamps or other lights that you can unplug, do that. For fixtures you can’t unplug, go to the breaker box and turn off the breaker (best solution) or at least turn off the wall switch and tape it in the off position.

The second step is to put on gloves and safety glasses. If the bulb breaks while you are working on it, you don’t want to be cut with broken glass. Sometimes using rubber dish washing gloves will improve your grip enough so that you can twist the bulb without any further effort.

The final step is to decide on a method to extract it.

image from...

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Rotate the first tube 90 degrees.

Reach up, and gently support the first fluorescent tube with both hands, keeping your hands as close to the ends of the bulb as possible. You will be able to rotate the tube in either direction a quarter-turn until it stops. This action rotates the prongs, that project from each end of the bulb, to a vertical alignment, and so allows you to slide the tube downward and out of the fixture.

/c/c9/Replace Fluorescent Lighting Step...

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Yes, "across your heart" that MIGHT be true. That's to say if you pushed metal pins through your chest that touched your heart on both sides and put that voltage and current thorugh.

Here's the thing about voltage and current and why I kind of chuckle when people say it's the amps that kill not the volts. Ohm's law states that volts and amps are directly related. Volts = Amps x Resistance. People never say, resistance is what kills, although that would have the same merrit in my mind. You see, depending on how far away the wires are when they touch you, how moist your skin is, how much water you drank etc determines the resistance of you and the circut you'll be completing when you touch the wires. When you touch wires in your house you will ALWAYS experience that voltage (110V in USA 220 elswhere). Voltage is a constant in this equation if we're talking about house wiring (except dryer,stove) Depending on the resistance YOU create (distance of wires when they touch you and...

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It wasn’t so long ago that Philips introduced its Hue smart lighting system, and since then, the company has expanded its lineup to include quite an arrangement of light bulbs and light fixtures to choose from.

However, it can be a little confusing when shopping around for Philips Hue lights to add to your home, as there are a ton of different bulbs available. Here’s a rundown of what all Hue has to offer.

Philips Hue Bulbs and Fixtures

There are a lot more bulbs and lights than you’d expect, each designed for a different use. Here’s what you’ll find in Philips’ Hue line of lights.

Hue “White and Color”

This is arguably the most popular Philips Hue bulb available, and it’s the same bulb that’s included in the Hue White and Color Starter Kit, which is a great kit to buy if you’re just starting out with Philips Hue.

The Hue White and Color Bulb ($60) can display different colors, but its real strength is the ability to...

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Outdoor halogen light fixtures offer a brilliant light radius which can often illuminate your entire yard. The light is so powerful, that it often only requires one well-placed light fixture to do it.

When you have a halogen light fixture outside and the bulb happens to go out, the difference is like, well, it is like night and day! A great source for home security or for simply being able to keep an eye on your dog as he does his business, halogen light fixtures are a wonderful addition to any backyard.

But, these powerful lights do not use a conventional light bulb. Halogen light bulbs are long and thin, and they do not get screwed in, which can confuse some people. So to help keep your yard illuminated, here's how to change a lightbulb in an outdoor halogen light...

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Old apartments come with a lot of character. They also sometimes come with really old fixtures, the kind of fixtures that are caked with centuries of wear and tear. Those kinds of fixtures don't like to let go of light bulbs too easily. Luckily, you have this tip in your back pocket.

Don't let a stuck bulb be a bigger problem than it has to be. Before you go bonkers trying to loosen that dead bulb (and inevitably break it* in the process—natch!), try this why-didn't-I-think-of-that tip from Real Simple.

Reach for a two-foot long piece of duct tape, and wrap it in a loose loop (sticky sides in) with the lightbulb in the middle. Press the excess tape on either side together, forming two handles. Give 'em a counter-clockwise twist and watch the bulb come un-stuck. Voila! (There's a video here if you need help.)

It might be a no-brainer for some of you out there, but we're hoping that at least a few folks will remember this next time they're faced with a tight...

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Tip: Hair Dryer to Help Remove Stubborn Light Bulb

Having to change a "stubborn" light bulb from your freezer or refrigerator, not wanting it to break in your hand? Take a hairdryer to it! Aim the air at the base of the bulb's area where it screws in and it will unleash the grasp on the bulb and you are ready to install the new bulb.

By Trisha from Ventura, CA

Removing a Stuck Recessed Lightbulb

June 20, 20170 found this helpful

Lightbulbs can get stuck in the socket, if it is a recessed lightbulb that can make it even more difficult to remove. This is a guide about removing a stuck recessed lightbulb.

Question: Removing a Stuck Light Bulb

How do I remove a light bulb stuck in the ceiling socket?

By Alex from Naples, FL


By guest (Guest Post)

December 16, 20071 found this helpful

Best Answer

I have used gaffer's tape especially with floodlight or spotlight bulbs. Use a 6...

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Technical Questions

How is the hour rating on a bulb determined?

Lamp manufacturers test large groups of lamps to estimate the average burn time that can be expected. In the lighting industry hour ratings are referred to as Average Rated Life. Some lamps will last longer and some will not last as long as the Average Rated Life but this provides the best estimate.

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Why do my fluorescent lights flicker?

Flickering can be caused by any of the following conditions:

The environment is too cold; most ballasts are not designed for temperatures less than 50 degrees. Drafts and moving cold air may cause flickering too. Special low-temperature ballasts are available; ask our Customer Service staff for details. The lamp is not properly installed in the socket. Try removing it and reinstalling it to ensure it is firmly in place. The lamp is at the end of its life and needs to be replaced. The lamp and the ballast wattage requirements are not...
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Beware the broken light bulb

Removing a broken light bulb from a screw-shell lamp holder can be dangerous if you don’t solve two problems: First, how do you know the electricity is really off if the fixture or lamp holder is controlled by a simple on-off switch (or a pull chain)? Second, how do you get the broken light bulb base out of the lamp holder without cutting your hand or damaging the inside of the lamp holder?

Removing a broken light bulb

Check for voltage

Make sure the power is off by pointing a non-contact voltage detector near the broken light bulb and turning the light fixture off and on. When an electrical field is present, the voltage detector will both flash a light and emit an audible signal.

Grab the broken base with a potato

Support the light fixture and plunge a spud into the lamp holder. The glass bits and debris will bind up with the potato, making a good lock on the lamp base as you twist the bulb out.

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You’re here because you are trying to replace a bulb and can’t. I had a similar issue some time ago and failed. I had to call a professional electrician. I have posted my research on this post. A lot of other people have provided their ideas, as well.

1) SCREWED TYPE : Remove the screws


Most dome ceiling lights have screws that

(A) screw in from the side to hold the dome in place or

(B) the dome has a metal frame that supports the glass dome. Ones with a frame generally have 2-3 screws through the frame that hold the frame to the ceiling flange. Metal “objects” on the frame should be screws. Unscrew them and the dome should come free. If they are not screws they may be some sort of decorative head on a threaded post but they should still unscrew.

1. Locate one or more flat-headed screws on the metal collar (the round part into which the globe is...

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Electric Outlets Don't Work

I have two outlets on one wall that don't work. I have replaced both outlets so have concluded that isn't the problem. There is power in the black wire so I assume the problem is continuity in the white wire. Other Outlets and lights on the circuit work. Any suggestions on the cause and solution would be greatly appreciated.

You checked the black wire and it was energized. Since the white seems to be the problem, then I assume you tested black to ground to determine there was juice there. But when you test black to white, you get nothing.

Thus, the white has an open some where. Do you know where the feed to the outlets comes from? Is there an outlet that feeds them, or perhaps fed from a light fixture in the floor below?

Not knowing what floor these are on, and if you have access to the ceiling below, I am not sure where to tell you to look. But you need to find where they are being fed from. Then you check to see if the...

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I recently purchased a few GE light bulbs, specifically focused on home automation and voice control lighting. I should start by saying that I have the Amazon Echo at home (amazing product, equivalent to the invention of the cellphone) and I preconfigured it before I went off to Home Depot. Now one of the features of the Echo is that it has the ability to control household lighting via voice command functionality (great for my wife and I as we are both disabled; failed spinal fusion for the lady and I am a disabled veteran) and the literature specifically tells you that the Echo will work with 3 home automation companies: Insteon, SmartThings and Wink.

So at Home Depot I came across GE's Link Connected LED bulb, 60 watt, 800 lumens, Soft White. The packaging is nice, clean and sturdy; so I thought we were off to a great start, it just felt like a solid product instantly. The package states that it replaces a 60 watt while only utilizing 12 watts in actuality. It's extremely...

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Forward/Overview: This troubleshooting guide is intended for most all UV Sterilizers and Replacement Bulbs/Lamps, NOT just those purchased from American Aquarium Products.

Also, I realize that not everyone has a multi-meter, other technical equipment, or even the know-how to trouble shoot a UV bulb, but please understand my staff or I usually don't have the correct testing equipment when visiting clients in my aquarium and pond maintenance business.

Hopefully this article will help perform some general troubleshooting without the need for technical tools.

With that said, this cannot suffice for common sense or remedial trial & error skills. Often when I came across a UV Sterilizer where the replacement bulb did not work (especially if the bulb/lamp inside already ceased functioning), I would use a second bulb, and if this bulb failed, it was rather obvious I...

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