Running a new 240v circuit for a dryer

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I just bought a home with a gas hookup for the dryer, but I have a fairly recent, perfectly working electric dryer, so I've decided to run a 240v line instead of purchasing a new gas dryer. This is what I plan to do and wanted to run it by you folks to see if it makes sense and if there are any gotchas I should be sure to look out for. (I'll also be re-reading Richter/Schwann's "Wiring Simplified" to make sure I do things correctly.)

Dryer is rated at 240V, 30 amps. It comes configured for a 3-wire connection, but this can be changed to a 4-wire connection by separating the neutral and ground wire inside the dryer. (Instructions are provided for this in the manual.) I'll need to use a 4-wire connection since the circuit I'll be installing is post-1996 (per NEC) House has 200 amp electric service I'll add a 30 amp breaker to the main panel and use Romex 10/3 NM-B w/ground. The run from the dryer to the panel is about 50 feet or less

Any suggestions or worries about the above?...

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Hey Russ. Can this be done?, sure, I've seen it done many times over the years by jack-leg electricians. Not saying this is you, but most guys think well if I've got a 30amp breaker, let's load 'er up. Or, even worst, well if that 20 amp is tripping, let's put in a 30. Other factors must be considered. Bare with me on this as it may get long.

On any dedicated circuit, the breaker should be sized to protect the end device that will be operating on it. The norm is a RLA/FLA (Run Load Amps/Full Load Amps) of no more than 80% of protection rating. In other words; 12 amps on 15 amp breaker; 16 amps on 20 amp breaker, etc. Some large in-rush (starting) motors can be more like 70-75%.

Once breaker size is determined, you "shall" use wire with a maximum amp rating of =/> breaker size. #10 or 10 awg wire is rated at 33 amps, so the maximum breaker that can be used is a 30 amp. And this is for a 100' run; if the run is over 100', you need to increase to the next wire size and again for...

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Breaker could be bad.

Let's do a quick check and save you money.

Open top cover on water heater and push in red reset button that might be tripped.

If reset is tripped, water heater should turn ON.

If reset will not reset, then replace upper thermostat:


http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

If reset is not tripped out, then it is OK, so test two top wires on upper thermostat.

Use cheap multimeter from home center, and set dial to 240-250-277 VAC.

Test across top two screws on upper thermostat to see if you have 240Volts.

To do full troubleshoot on ordinary tank electric water heater takes 30 minutes and multimeter


http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

If water heater is not receiving 240V, then the breaker is suspect, or a wire between breaker and water heater is loose.
See basic water heater circuit
...

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We've swapped out a three-prong dryer cord with a four-prong one but not wanting to plug it in and potentially blow something up. Approach from here?

We have a Maytag 5000 Series with Steam dryer (as far as I can tell,

this is the manual

) and have just moved it to a new house. It had a three-prong adapter to a 120V connection at our old house but the new place has a four-prong connection (which I'm assuming, from what I've read) is 240V.

I purchased a four-prong power cord (Amazon) and swapped out the cords (using this guide) but decided to stop before plugging it in and go "hmm, this is a 120V device..."

Since then, calling and searching haven't really turned up anyone trying to do this---I have yet to find stories of people blowing out their dryers with too much voltage and similarly haven't found much about people trying to run them on different circuits with success or failure besides a couple people trying to run a 240V dryer on a 140V circuit. I...

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Hey guys,

New user here. I posted this over at electrician talk and got my thread closed for not being an electrician, and they directed me this way. Any helps with this problem would be much appreciated. Without further adieu here is the thread I posted.

Alright guys, so I've done a decent amount of electrical work in my life but I am not an electrician. I figured being a telecom guy it'd be best to do my homework and run this one by yall before I go through with it and burn someone's house down

The project that I am helping my friend with is that he needs to add a box to hook up 3-4 1000W hps lights in his basement. They run on 240v. Anyways, his panel is full and he isn't really trying to make a big thing out of it. Conveniently, his dryer cable is run through the basement, so what I was thinking that I could do is switch his 30amp breaker with a 60amp breaker and then piggy back the 240v receps off the back of that to where I run them too. The...

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i am no sparky, so take this with a grain of salt:

1. 10 gauge wire is rated for 30 amps, NOT 40 or 50!

2. i don't think it is legal at all to piggy back off the dryer outlet to feed the garage. you could install a subpanel where the dryer outlet is and still use the same wire, but you must maintain clearances around the panel so this may not be possible.

3. a GFCI works by sensing uneven current draw across the legs. since you were feeding a 120v outlet with one leg, it would trip.

4. ALL 120v outlets MUST have a hot, a neutral, and a ground. you cannot under any circumstance use ground as a neutral, this is a very serious safety issue.

if it were me, i would open the wall in teh garage and put in a sub panel JUST for the garage and run it back to the main panel. the current 240 feed to teh garage should be cut off and shoved back into the wall at both end so that no one can ever use it again.

even though you say there is only a few inches...

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Hey venturellak,

Thanks for your question and welcome to the community!

Almost every dryer out on the market today in the U.S. is rated for 30 amps that are electric (not gas)...and no higher.

With that said, you'll need to make sure the wire as well as the receptacles are rated for 30 amps. I'm not sure what you mean by 'four-prong circuit breaker' but I'm assuming you are referring to the receptacle/plug.

Changing out the breaker to 30 amps is one thing, but making sure everything on the circuit (receptacle/wire feeding it) is all rated for 30 amps. It sounds like you may of had a range or 50 amp service there. DO NOT install 50 amp plugs or receptacles onto this, nor leave the 50 amp as is.

This creates a fire hazard, since the dryer could overload and the breaker there now won't allow for it to trip properly.With that said, ALWAYS maintain 30 amps throughout the circuit, including your receptacle/plug, wire and breaker.

Do...

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I noticed a post previously about utilizing a dryer plug in "USA" I REPEAT "USA" to power mining rigs in your home more efficient blah blah and now cant find that post to answer. SOooo if you have a 240v capable PSU and want to find a way to plug into a dryer socket here is your man.

https://bsa-electronics.myshopify.com/collections/dryer-buddys/products/copy-of-dryer-buddy-5-30a-240v-splitter-5ft-cable-nema-14-30-plug-1996-one-14-30-outlet-one-14-50-outlet-with-optional-volt-ammeter-meter

great guy talked to him a bunch super helpful and was able to get to me what i needed asap.

if you want to do this know a little about the home you are living in and the general guidelines to follow when working with electricity.

continuous duty cycle 80% of max load (amps) * .80 = 80% max amps

30*.80=24 amps 24 amps * 240v = 5760w = MY personal max continuous load in watts NOT yours.

know how much power your rigs are drawing (for...

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Hello.

so story goes live in an apartment, have stove(what apartment has no stove? lol). but no 240v 30 amp circuit to run a dryer.

stove is 240V 50 Amp circuit.

now I have 3 options I can think of.

1. run a new line from the stove outlet, into a box with 30 amp fuses that will supply another box containing the new dryer plug. I will be using #10 or #8 G wire for the additions.

2. run a new line from the 50 amp fuses in the fuse box to another box with 30 amp fuses which will supply another box with the dryer outlet. I will be using #10 or #8 G wire for the additions.

3. use a hair dryer instead heh.

Obviously not to overload the 50 amp fuses, NOT going to be using both devices at the same time.

I do not care about CODE it's Obviously NOT. The only reason being is the building owner does not care about code just how "cheaply it can be done".. so hence why should I?

I would like your opinions on how relatively safe a set...

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Dryer Outlet Circuit

WHILE EXTREME CARE HAS BEEN IMPLEMENTED IN THE PREPARATION OF THIS SELF-HELP DOCUMENT, THE AUTHOR AND/OR PROVIDERS OF THIS DOCUMENT ASSUMES NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ERRORS OR OMISSIONS, NOR IS ANY LIABILITY ASSUMED FROM THE USE OF THE INFORMATION, CONTAINED IN THIS DOCUMENT, BY THE AUTHOR and / OR PROVIDER.

Read the legal disclaimer page - click the legal link in the menu above

Wiring a Dryer Receptacle & Circuit

Dryer wire cable between circuit panel and dryer plug is 10 AWG, black / red / white / bare (or green). X & Y are interchangeable, red and black wires are ungrounded (hot) wires, one wire on the X, and the other on the Y. The grounded conductor (neutral [white]) and the bare (or green) equipment ground wire MUST be on there designated connection. In the diagram bellow the bare (or green) ground is indicated by a green line. The ...

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[Electrical] Adding 120v to 240v Circuit

Existing:

Electric clothes dryer with a 240v outlet in the wall behind it. There is no 120v outlet.

Future: Gas dryer that requires a 120v outlet. Would like to add this while still keeping existing 240v outlet for future flexibility. Gas piping is not an issue.

Question: The existing 240v circuit is a 3 wire (plus a 4th ground wire). Is it legal and safe to wire the 120v outlet into the existing 240v circuit, and use a 2 gang outlet box?

Not legal.

I`m no sparky, but I`m pretty sure the only legal way to do this is to put a sub panel on the wall. Wire a dryer plug as the feed into the panel, then take your 120v ckt off the panel.

-j

to Lurch77

What is the washer plugged in to? If it's a single outlet, can you change to a double?

The washer is plugged into a double 120v outlet, but it is located on the other side of a cabinet that separates the two machines. Worst case scenario is I...

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I'm sorry if I'm hijacking this thread but my situation is similar and I didn't want to start another on the same subject.

I am looking to add a 220V circuit to my garage for a heater. The heater is the Cadet garage heater and uses a 20A 220V plug. I currently don't have a circuit like this, but can install one coming off my sub-panel in my basement. I am also planning on refinishing my basement and installing two Cadet 240V baseboard heaters. If I install a 20A circuit for the garage heater and install the baseboard heaters on the same circuit, I know I will need at least a double pole 20A breaker, however my calculations tell me that a 4000W heater (garage) and 2 750W heaters give me 5500W (22A) which would mean I need a double pole 30A (80% of 30=24A) breaker in my sub-panel and 10-2 AWG NMB wire. This is fine as my sub-panel is being fed with 6 gauge THHN wire with a double pole 60A breaker in my main 100A panel. If I go this route, will using the garage heater that...

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