Rust on copper pipe at strap

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—Information accurate as of: build 904.83


The Waterpipe Shotgun is a single-fire ranged weapon. Like all the Shotgun weapons, it uses all three ammo types: Handmade Shell, 12 Gauge Buckshot and 12 Gauge Slug ammunition. It is very powerful and fires a large barrage of pellets, capable of one-shotting at close range. In early game, the Waterpipe Shotgun is a very capable weapon, as it is cheap, and delivers high damage at close range, making it great for indoor fights. It is also much more reliable to use versus the other early-game firearm option (Eoka Pistol).

Quite a loud gun, it may attract unwanted attention; it is not possible to attach a Silencer to the Waterpipe Shotgun.

It takes 4.5 seconds to reload.

Crafting Edit

The Waterpipe Shotgun can be crafted with:

It takes 60 seconds to craft.

Researching Edit

The Waterpipe Shotgun Blueprint can be researched...

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Rust is a chemical reaction that occurs when metals or metal alloys combine with oxygen and water. Corrosion occurs when an element that easily loses its electrons (like some metals) combines with an element that loves to suck up extra electrons (oxygen) and then comes into contact with an “electrolyte solution” (water). The job of the water in rusting is to basically accelerate the flow of electrons from the metal to the oxygen.

This process is called the “redox reaction“, and it’s actually two chemical processes that happen at the same time: reduction and oxidation.

A reduction reaction happens when a molecule gains an electron. That’s the role of the oxygen in metal corrosion.

Oxidation is the name for the reaction that happens when a molecule loses an electron, that’s what’s happening to the metal. That’s why you say “Metal oxidizes”, rust and the patina (weird green color) of copper are the visible results of the metal losing its electrons to the...

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There is a plumber in my area that has been using galvanized ductwork supports and soldering to copper.

Everyone knows what's going to happen years down the road, it will eat a hole in that copper pipe.

I understand the ease of those over cutting a piece a wood and banging 2 or 4 nails in but that is just improper workmanship.

This same plumber is the same plumber that heats a staple to put a weep hole in a sump pump discharge to prevent air lock,

same guy who hangs a ST-12 tank perpendicular from the water line and watch nearly 40 pounds of water make it bend down when it blows,

Same guy that doesn't know how to wipe a solder joint down after completion to clean up the flux.

He does it like he knows he ain't coming back. Gives me a job but should I care? Yes

You're a professional, act like...

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It would appear that some of the aforesaid posts are mixing apples and oranges. While it is true that electrolosys will always produce corrosion it is also true that not all corrosion is a result of electrolosys.

Under ordinaary circumstances electrolosys occurs inside the pipe wall at the point of a ferrous metal to non-ferrous metal connection I.E. iron pipe or vessel to copper pipe or fitting.

The effects of electrolosys only occur at the actual point of contact and it will have absolutely no influence on the service life of other pipe, fittings or components of your piping system.

While nothing is truely permanents, the intent of the building codes is to construct a structure with an anticipated life of 50 to 100 years. With that thought in mind it becomes necessary for the codes to address known problems in the worst case scenario. For that reason the codes define that we must use galvanized hangers or strapping on iron pipe, copper or copper clad hangers...

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I could be wrong about this but, I have always been taught that if a pipe is corroding then it will continue to corrode unless all of the corrosion is removed and the source of the corrosion is repaired.

So with that in mind there are a couple of things to consider here that can work.... I will go from least exspensive and tell you what the problems could be

1- Insulate the pipe or put some type of barrier between the strap and the pipe.- Will Slow the Corrosive effect but, the process has already started so I think it will still continue to corrode and will eventually leak.

2- Replace section of pipe that is corroded that you can see and replace all of the straps- This will stop those spots from corroding... but dont get your hopes up till you read my next comment that may expalin why the plumber said what he said

3- Replace the pipes and do the work the correct way- The Plumber pointed out the portion of the pipe that he could see. Chances are that...

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