Sealing Ceiling holes


For small nail holes, use spackle. This is the simplest, cheapest way to fill small holes that aren't subject to significant movement.

For cracks/seams, such as at corners or around window trim, use caulk (probably a paintable latex or latex+silicone caulk, as they're easy to work with).

For deeper holes/cavities, such as around a pipe that is going through your floor, use expanding spray foam. This product will expand around whatever stuff is there, providing a good seal to block insects. But beware that the expansion can come with a lot of force, so don't overfill; if you're working in tight places, the expansion can cause damage. Around windows and doors especially use a minimum-expansion foam.

After patching the hole, make sure to seal the repair with primer before you paint...

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Do you ever have those projects that just don’t progress, and they loom over you, undone, exuding a dim cloud of guilt over every spare moment?

That’s my garage.

Ever since we were halted by the discovery of a lot more moisture in our garage floor than expected and I completed the makeover of the old workbench that will eventually go back into the garage, I’ve been increasingly uneasy by this big, ugly project that was just languishing.

The best way to work through that guilt is obviously to make some progress. (Watching more Netflix actually doesn’t do anything about the guilt. I checked.)

While I couldn’t move forward on my major endeavors in there (i.e., the floor, the exposed ductwork, the giant holes in the walls) until I got an expert opinion, there were plenty of small things I could do that would make things easier in the long-run.

Most of these things concerned patching holes and making the garage more airtight. We have A LOT of...

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Prepare a container of spackle. Many brands of spackle or putty come premixed in disposable containers, and can just be opened and used. Drywall compounds are also available that can be mixed in a small, disposable cup.


Remove the debris around the hole. Strip away any old paint or loose and flaking spots of drywall. If the hole was created by a screw or other attachment that affixed something to the ceiling, make sure all of the attachment pieces have been removed from the area, including inside the hole.


Dust the area around the hole with a toothbrush or small paintbrush to remove any dust.If the hole is larger than half an inch, use an adhesive mesh tape on the hole. Scrape the area around the ceiling hole, and apply the tape in strips that run at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) past the hole before preparing the area for spackling.


Moisten a small, soft sponge and dampen the hole, rubbing gently. Make sure the ceiling hole is...

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The flat panel houses a fairly urgent need to seal tile ceiling joints - not as obscure and not dub the seam, he still will crack.Fortunately, this situation is not hopeless, and in this article you can find the answer to the question of how to close up the seams on the ceiling.

In addition, the problem of the availability of highly relevant joints and surface finish decorative ceiling tiles.How to get rid of the seams on the ceiling in this case, we will understand.

crack in the ceiling, formed at the junction between the floor slabs

Closing ceiling joint between floor slabs

Before you seal the seams on the ceiling, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:

puncherfitted with a blade; sharp knife construction; small paint brush; Nailguns; spatula; assembly foam; leveling mortar; primer; putty.

Instructions seam sealing of ceiling

Advanced using punch seam ceiling

consider how to close up the seams...

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Such troubles as formation of cracks between the floor slabs on the ceiling, or simply a manifestation once not entirely successful embedded seams, are very common in prefabricated high-rise buildings.Therefore, at the first sign of these phenomena need to take action.But this requires to have information as to close up the seams between the panels on the ceiling alone, without recourse to a call-dressers professionals.

How to seal the joints between the panels on the ceiling

If the apartment is located on at last, the top floor and on the ceiling there was a gap between the plates, it is not excluded that...

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Repair - responsible event and not quick. The most difficult thing, perhaps - is to prepare the working surfaces, namely to align the walls, floor, ceiling, etc. zashpatlevat However, removing old wallpaper, you may find that in the ceiling there are no cracks and holes, and these holes. Panicking is not necessary. They can be repaired by yourself.

Instruction how to patch up a hole in the ceiling

Step 1:

Before making cosmetic repairs (painting, pasting wallpaper), tidy surface of walls and ceilings. Seal cracks, holes. If there is a crack, you can use a special filler for cracks - it is a finished product. It is applied with a spatula on a crack, pressed and overwritten.

Step 2:

Narrow cracks can be filled with special filler to the hair, thin cracks. If it is necessary to seal the crack where the combined different textures, such as plaster and wood casing, it is better to take a flexible filler. But remember: the right solutions cook, keep...

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If you want to improve the energy performance of an older house, one of the first steps is to plug your attic air leaks. Although many articles address aspects of attic air sealing, no single article provides an overview of the topic. This article is an attempt to provide that missing overview.

I’ll try to explain how you can seal air leaks in a conventional vented, unconditioned attic. If your house has cathedral ceilings — that is, insulated sloped roof assemblies — the air sealing tips in this article don’t apply to your house.

There are four basic steps to sealing attic air leaks:

Inspecting your attic; Patching the big holes; Sealing the cracks and small holes; and Weatherstripping the access hatch.

Once this air sealing work is done, you may want to add more insulation to your attic floor. If you want to add insulation, remember that air leaks have to be sealed first.

Inspecting your attic

The easiest way to find...

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I’m not sure if this post falls into the category of “fun ideas.” It’s more of a necessary evil of handling a great big gaping hole in your ceiling. So, I’ll tell ya that the first thing you need is a great big gaping hole in your ceiling drywall. I suppose there are numerous ways to get one, but I’ll just stick to how mom and pop got this hole. It started with some drips coming through the ceiling and then the drywall started to break apart. Then I pulled down any additional drywall that was soaked through. The leak started on a rainy day, so of course we automatically assumed the roof was leaking. After having the roofing guy come out to take a look, the roof was quickly ruled out.

It turned out that the central AC drain line was backed up. Luckily, the parental units had purchased an extended warranty on the system. They had purchased this system from Sears in 2004 and continued to renew the warranty each year. Each renewal also includes an annual service...

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Greyton can provide solutions for all services penetrations and Fire sealing penetrations in walls, ceilings and slabs. We use a wide range of products to achieve the required rating whatever the parameters are. Some of the systems include:

Non-shrink fire rated mortar to pipes and cable penetrations Fire rated ‘pillows’ both intumescent and mineral wool installed around pipes and cables. Intumescent collars, wraps and pastes for all plastic pipes or conduits passing through large slab or from fire sealing penetrations proof wall or ceilings. This may involve constructing fire rated bulkheads to accommodate collars where it is not possible to retrofit them. Fire rated calcium silicate, Fire sealing penetrations, vermiculite and Rockwool boards to both wall and floor penetrations. Flexible fire rated foams around pipes where expansion and contraction is important. This is usually part of a fire mortar system. ...
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Repairing a ceiling seems to be one of the main tasks out there these days! (See also our project on repairing holes in plasterboard walls). Perhaps its because more and more people are looking at converting their lofts or maybe that we all have too much junk we need to store it in the loft, but it seems quite a few people every week are putting a least one of their feet through the bedroom ceiling.

The frustrating thing about repairing a ceiling, be it mending holes in plaster ceilings or lath and plaster ceilings, you always have to make the hole bigger before you can repair it.

This method can also be used for inserting a new timber into a ceiling for screwing a light fitting to if required.

Check For Wires And Pipes In The Ceiling

The very first thing to do is to check the immediate area for cables and pipes. Its no good hammering and sawing away to mend a ceiling if you are going to chop through an electrical wire or water pipe and cause a short...

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Look for sunken batts. These are often a clue that there is a soffit or suspended (dropped) ceiling under the insulation. In most cases, these soffits and dropped ceilings lack any ceiling drywall — and therefore lack an air barrier.

Look for plumbing vent pipes, ducts, and exhaust fans. Areas near these items are frequent leak locations.

Think about the layout of the floor directly under the attic. If you know of any dropped ceilings or soffits, try to locate those areas in your attic. You’ll probably want to lift the existing batts (or redistribute the blown-in insulation) to find out what’s underneath.

If you take your time and you’re thorough, you should be able to find all of the big holes in your attic using these...

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Having two weeks summer leave off the regularly scheduled program. A golden opportunity to get some real work done! Spent the last few days installing another carload of dense mineral wool. Mostly filling in the corners and rear wall. Many corners are now superchunks. Rear wall and ceiling cloud is nearly superchunked - friggin massive! 660 pounds of absorption in total.

Just can't help myself, am all giddy happy about it! Those who claim acoustics upgrades are not as fun as purchasing gear obviously haven't tried.. Good sound is sexy!

Heres the crux of this ceiling corner montage: didn't want to damage the ceiling, for several reasons. So I had to use a a way to hang the panels without attaching them to the ceiling. This one worked out fine.

L brackets take most of the weight:

The two holes in the upper middle is for attaching the metal strip:

The metal strip goes all the way around the panel. By...

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Steven Asks: What should I use to fill the small holes in my brick walls?

Danny Lipford: The holes you’re talking about, that you’ll find around the perimeter of a brick home, are called weep holes. Now, these are very important and can’t be sealed up, because bricks always hold moisture and store moisture. So you need some place for that moisture to escape and air to circulate.

Now, if you’re concerned that insects may use that to get inside your home, well, here’s something you can do there. You can find some fiberglass screens—readily available, very inexpensive. You can just cut small pieces of it like this, and then just force it into the crack to keep the insects out. Another way is to use a scouring pad like this. Again, cut small sections of it, and insert it right in the crack. But you don’t want to use anything that has metal in it, because sooner or later it’ll...

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Air Sealing the Most Common Attic Air Leaks

Electrical, plumbing and HVAC contractors use your attic to conceal the wires, pipes and ducts that comprise the mechanical systems in your home.

During the construction of your home, they drill and cut holes through the walls to run these pipes and wires. Follow the interior and exterior walls and look for the holes. You'll also want to look for chimneys, furnace flues and lights. This is where most of your largest leaks can be found.

Looking up at the ceiling underneath your attic should help you find the holes. Before you go up into the attic, try to get familiar with your home's layout or just sketch out a floor plan map. This helps you keep your bearings as you ascend into the attic.

While you are in the attic, carefully move over to the areas you've identified and pull back the insulation. If the insulation is black and dirty, you know you've definitely found an air leak. As the warm air rises...

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Assess the size of the hole. Spackle repairs holes up to the size of a hand or so, but any hole larger than the size of a fist will require the use of a support of some kind, unless they happen to have support behind the wallboard already.


Choose the correct spackle. One way to classify spackle is by weight: the smaller the hole, the lighter the spackle you will need.


Cut any loose or hanging pieces from the hole with a utility knife, or any sharp tool. Don’t make the hole any bigger than you have to, but do make sure to remove any crumbling or unsupported wallboard gypsum.


Choose a spackle knife of an appropriate size: slightly larger than the hole. If you are unsure, use a larger one.


Stir the spackle, especially if you are using a previously opened spackle tub.


Press the loaded side of the spackling tool into the wall about a half-inch (20 to 30 mm) above the hole.

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Video Summary
Repairing Ductwork - How to Repair Large Holes in Ductwork

Now as you're going around inspecting your ductwork and cleaning it up and getting it ready to put mastic or seal it up in any way…You may find some surprises and I'm going to show you what I mean.

I found some huge holes, and when I mean holes,I mean holes…holes like this. The size of my hand, I can stick my hand in the ductwork.

So obviously we can't leave it like that. So I'll see if I can get the video camera up there and show you how I fix it. But uh, basically I'll take you over to the work table and I'll show you what I'm going to do.

So the hole I found up in the ductwork is about 5 1/2 inches in diameter. And what they did was put duct tape over top of it and of course…duct tape, I don't know over time it breaks down it's not made for actually working on ducts for some strange reason. But um, anyway…

So what we're going to do is we're going to take a piece of...

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InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.

Asbestos-suspect ceiling cover-up:

What is the best way to reduce the hazard from an asbestos-containing ceiling that is shedding or that is in poor condition. We describe laminating gypsum board over an asbestos-suspect ceiling in Indonesia. Separately, A reader describes a simple, inexpensive, but labor intensive approach to coating or cover-over of asbestos-suspect ceiling tiles or panels that are securely fastened and in good condition. Covering asbestos or asbestos suspect materials in some locations is permitted and makes economic sense as a method of reducing the asbestos hazard in buildings. In fact generally it's better, cheaper, and safer to leave non-friable, un-damaged asbestos materials in place than to try a demolition and removal project.

Green links show where you are. © Copyright 2017,...

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How-To Videos

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By: Danny Lipford

Sealing up cracks on the outside of your home is important to prevent rainwater from seeping in and causing rot and mold. Sealing cracks also increases energy efficiency and lowers utility bills by reducing air infiltration into your home.

To seal cracks on your home:

Fill small cracks and holes with quality, exterior grade caulking. Fill larger cracks and holes using expandable spray foam.

If you plan to paint over the caulking, be sure the caulking you use is paintable.

Watch this video to find out more.

Further Information

Video Transcript

Sealing up cracks on the outside of a home keeps moisture out and prevents outside air from influencing the inside conditioned air. For larger openings use an expandable foam spray from a can to fill in the voids. Smaller openings can be filled with caulk. Before you select your...

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Most residential duct systems have numerous leaks that waste energy and lead to room-to-room pressure imbalances. Unfortunately, though, few building inspectors outside of California bother to enforce existing code requirements that residential duct seams be sealed with mastic or high-quality duct tape.

Most model codes, including the International Residential Code (IRC), include duct tightness provisions:

The 2006 IRC section N1103.2.2 requires that “Ducts, air handlers, filter boxes and building cavities used as ducts shall be sealed,” while IRC section M1601.3.1 requires that “Joints of duct systems shall be made substantially airtight by means of tapes, mastics, gasketing or other approved closure systems.” Hardware-store duct tape is not an approved tape. Section 403.2.2 of the 2004 International Energy Conservation Code (IECC International Energy Conservation Code.) requires that “All ducts, air handlers, filter boxes, and building cavities used as ducts shall be...
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Sealing your home against air leakage is one of the simplest upgrades you can undertake to increase your comfort while reducing your energy bills and carbon emissions by up to 25%.

Air leakage accounts for...

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Different Sealers

There are three basic types of blacktop or asphalt sealers: simple emulsified asphalt; refined coal tar sealers; and 100 percent man-made acrylic polymer sealers.

The simple asphalt emulsion sealers offer the lowest levels of protection. In essence, they simply contain the same asphalt that was used to bind the sand and gravel together in the first place. This asphalt coating will oxidize and get brittle just like the asphalt you are trying to protect!

The next best sealer to use is manufactured using refined coal tar. Refined coal tar offers two distinct advantages: it is not dissolved easily by gasoline; and oil and UV rays do not readily make it brittle.

Asphalt is easily dissolved by gasoline and oil drippings from your car. Because of this, you should consider using refined coal tar products.

There is a wide variety of refined coal tar products. Some of them have additional additives such as rubber and rubber-like polymers...

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Re: Sealing fiberglass

Hello folks

. My question now is should I seal the exposed old fiberglass areas and if so with what?

I have already painted the stringers and sprayed CSM with epoxy paint but I'm about to reassemble the top of the hull back to the bottom half and am considering epoxy painting the underside of the upper part of the hull (deck).

i would not worry about sealing the old glass it self, usually they used a waxed resin. this it self seals the glass.

if the glass is covering a wood structure...then i would put a layer or flo coat of gellcoat on it.

paint would also do the trick.

but if we are talking about bare hull need.

there are a lot of stories of how poly resin and glass is not water proof......well its not....a molecule or 2 might get past it in 20 years.
but if you are thinking that the seepage thru glass is what caused the waterlogging in the first place....that is...

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