Should you seal grout when using RedGard Backing?



I did my first shower using RedGard recently over hardieboard, with ceramic 12x8 tiles and polymer modified thinset, sanded grout with about 1/8th inch gaps. All seems to have gone well except the grout seems to be taking a LOT longer than normal to dry (more than 72 hours.) I think maybe this is due to the water resistant barrier created by the redgard which forces all the curing to go on top / not thru the back of the hardieboard - much in the same way it takes longer over Ditra as well.

But this got me thinking... do I need to seal the grout when done? Normally I would hit it with a spray on grout sealer. But since we have the RedGard backing, is that something I still want to do or not? Would it be creating two water tight barriers where moisture could be stuck in...

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Video shows water being sprayed on inside of shower wall flowing through Bostik grout to outside of shower - in less than 20 seconds!

In renovating our master bath we were persuaded by the tile store’s salesperson to use Bostik’s NeverSeal Urethane grout. While being an order of magnitude more expensive than traditional grout; the benefits of not having to seal, stain resistance, and resistance to cracking sounded like a good tradeoff. We specifically used 2.5 containers Bostik 9-lbs Delorean Gray Urethane Premixed Grout with 3”x6” polished carrera marble over Hardibacker backer board that was sealed with RedGuard waterproofing and crack membrane.

The general contractor had limited experience with the product but was willing to try it at our request. He indicated that it was more difficult to install due it “chunky/sandy” consistency and was more difficult to remove the haze on the surface of the tile.

3-4 months after installation we noticed water spots in the...

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Different Types of Grout and When to Use Them

Can you choose the correct type of grout? Choosing the type of grout depends on the style, tile color, and type of material selected. Grout is used in the joints between floor and wall tiles, being the most common ones the sanded grout or Non-Sanded grout. Grout can be water-resistant; however, water or other liquids will most likely penetrate the joint and reach the backing. The best thing is to always seal your grout and it is a maintenance issue to be done every 2 to 3 years.

When to Use Non-Sanded Grouts

Non-sanded grout is a cement based grout normally used on smaller tile joints. It is recommended in floor and wall tiling projects with grout joints spacing between 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch. When non-sanded grout is used to fill wider joints, the grout could possibly crack due to the lack of bonding that the sands provide. This grout is designed for use in tile surfaces that are dry when the grout is applied....

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RedGard Waterproofing and Crack Prevention Membrane is slightly different from older methods of waterproofing, or newer plasticised waterproofing membranes. With RedGard, you spray, paint, or roll the liquid on--and it works very well on walls, without stapling, nailing and caulking to seal the material to your surface like other membranes. The pink-coloured liquid begins to set once it is applied; after turning red, it is dry and ready for mortar and tile installation. Best of all, you can use it indoors or out on many surfaces.

Create a slope, if necessary, by spreading a mortar or cement surface with a trowel--especially outside or in wet locations. Slope as you spread material--about 1/4 inch per foot. Make a homemade gauge, marking a stick at 1/4-inch increments and moving every foot, spreading product to height indicated on gauge. Place a level on the hardened surface and check angle as well. Rough surface up lightly with a broom. Cure concrete at least 28 days before...

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Grout sealer, a necessary component of the tile installation process, serves to prevent moisture from working its way into the grout and under the tiles. Grout fills seams between tiles. Most grout you will be using is called sanded, meaning that grout contains sand.

Sand is used by manufacturers not just because it is literally dirt-cheap but because it is a good material for what is a simple job: filling in a hole.

Grout is not needed to stabilize tile because mortar already holds the tile in place without any extra help.

Sand is porous, which means that grout is porous. Once grout has been applied and dried, it is ready to absorb any liquid that comes its way--like water.

By penetrating the grout with sealer first, you are pre-empting water and other liquids from penetrating the grout. Grout sealer is that simple.

Do You Always Need Grout Sealer?

Yes, you need it, except when you happen to be using epoxy-based grout. Grout sealer is...

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6 RedGard® Waterproofing Membrane and Crack Prevention Membrane is a ready-to-use elastomeric membrane for both commercial and residential tile and stone application. Suited for interior and exterior substrates, RedGard® creates a continuous waterproofing barrier with outstanding adhesion and reduces crack transmission in tile and stone floors. It bonds directly to metal drains, PVC, stainless steel and ABS drain assemblies and can be used as a slab-on-grade moisture vapor barrier under all types of floor coverings. For more information, watch our video on the Top 5 Tips for a Successful Waterproofing Installation:...

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Experts recommend thoroughly sealing your grout after any new tile work is done, but even those who have sealed it (or have had it done professionally) back when their floor, shower surround, or backsplash is newly completed should break out the sealer regularly (anywhere from every six months to a year) to keep that nice protective coating on your grout. You don’t absolutely have to, but it really cuts down on maintenance and keeps it looking mint for years to come.

What does sealed grout have over non sealed grout? Well, by not allowing moisture or dirt to penetrate the grout, it relegates these things to the surface, thereby protecting the look of your lines. In other words: white grout stays nice and clean and white. And any other colored grout looks as good as new (all while warding off mildew and other gross stains). And one tip that we heard from several tiling experts was that not only should we thoroughly seal our bathroom’s floor and wall grout two months...

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Prepare showers faster than ever - with RedGard SpeedCoat Rapid Curing Waterproofing Membrane.

RedGard SpeedCoat saves days - not hours – before flood testing and tiling.

Revolutionary moisture-cure technology ensures exceptionally fast curing, even in cold and damp or hot and humid conditions.

One coat of RedGard SpeedCoat cures in as little as one hour because it doesn’t rely on evaporation.

Installation is easy when you follow these simple steps.

First, review the Technical Data Sheet online for the most comprehensive details and coverage charts.

Depending on your project, you may need the following tools and materials:

• Paint pan and stir stick
• Paint brush
• One-quarter to one-half inch smooth nap roller
• Medium hard grout float
• Membrane mil gauge
• 2" CUSTOM Waterproofing Reinforcing Tape
• 100% Silicone Sealant
• Rubbing alcohol for cleaning tools
• Eye protection and

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Finally something I can answer! I have worked in pool and medium-large bathtub construction and installation for the last 5 years, so I might be able to give a bit of insight.

So, the answer to this one is that he is half right. Using a waterproof membrane is like wearing a condom, if you know how to pull out properly you don't need it, but if you try to get by without one and fuck up, you have 18 years of child support payments waiting for you. Similarly, there are definitely ways of water proofing without resorting to a membrane, but if this is your first time, its probably safer to use one. However, if you do decide to go without, make sure to both thinset AND tape vulnerable points, but make sure to also cross tape a few times to keep moisture from loosening the adhesive.

That being said, beware of over-proofing the base if you go with the membrane option. If you are using a membrane with a DG or DG- rating, you should under no circumstances double proof, like you...

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You should only seal cement based grout. Epoxy, urethane and other types of synthetic grouts do not need to be sealed. Sealing these types of synthetic grouts can do more harm than good for protecting them. Additionally you should not seal your grout if it has been re-colored, dyed or sealed with an epoxy based grout colorant. Grout colorants will put a topical layer of sealer on top of the grout that also serves to seal the grout. Sealing grout that has had a grout colorant applied can do more harm than good for protecting the grout.

You should always reseal your grout it has been deep cleaned. You should always reseal your grout it has been deep cleaned. Deep cleaning grout with strong alkaline and acidic cleaners can break down the sealers in grout. Grout sealers will also break down over time so you should seal your grout at least every 3-5 years. You should always thoroughly clean your grout before sealing it. You do not want to seal in any dirt and contaminates causing...

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You don't ever have to re-apply grout, unless there are visible cracks in the grout or chunks of grout that have actually fallen out. You can re-grout these areas. Use a hand held grout saw (preferred)or a flat head screw driver to score the area of grout that is cracked or missing, then you can re-grout these areas. If it is a bathroom tile, it is most likely a NON-SANDED grout, and you mix it up to a stiff, creamy consistancy. Spread it over the areas, pressing it into the cracks with a grout float or your finger. Try to pass the sponge at an angle over the vertical or horizontal lines of grout, this prevents the grout from coming back off. Wait for the grout to become dry enough that you can gently pass a grouting sponge over the grout without wiping it completely off. After the new grout has set and is pretty much dry, you buff the area with a dry cloth. If the grout is smooth and pretty much flush with the files, grouting is a waste of time. It would have to be such a...

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A common misconception about tile and grout is that they are waterproof. Once you install tile in your shower you have a big waterproof box that will last forever. Ummm, no.

Tile and stone (as well as grout) will actually retain water. How much water it retains is directly related to the density of the tile. For instance, porcelain tile is much more dense than travertine. This means that travertine will retain more moisture and allow more water to seep through to your substrate. If you happen to have travertine in your shower – don’t panic. As long as it was installed properly it will be fine.

So how do they figure this out?

When a specific type or brand of tile or stone is manufactured for production, the company will determine its density. There are four different categories into which each tile may be placed.

This is determined by weighing the particular tile, submerging it in water for a period of time, then weighing it again. The difference in the...

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