Soundproofing a Door with a Shower Pump Behind It

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I have a small room in which a shower pump is located. This room is only separated from the rest of the house by a wooden door. The shower pump is located on top of some sort of vibration dampening material, which is itself located on top of a layer of plywood which is then placed on the wooden floor.

The pump makes quite a loud noise while in operation and is very annoying to anyone in the flat. It is a Salamander CT50 (or very similar). Here's the culprit:

I want to somehow soundproof that door in order to reduce the noise. Considering the way the pump is placed, I would exclude the noise being transmitted through the floor. Hence I would assume there's only noise transmitted through the air.

I am renting the flat so changing the pump or making some sort of serious modifications is not an option.

I've already fitted a draught excluder under the door which can be seen in the picture as well. It is one of these.

I was thinking of also...

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The problem of soundproofing is a very small hole in the soundproofing lets lots of noise thru. If for instance the track the sliding door travels has a felt strip or thin rubber strip along its length, that will let lots of sound thru as it is mostly air or very thin. Keep that in mind. Doors typically have an air gap under them that allows air from the AC to flow out of the room to the return. This gap under the door really affects the soundproofing. If you get a sliding door make sure it is double pane. Double panes drastically reduce noise transfer and will make a huge difference like it does on Mercedes car windows. I put lots of effect in soundproofing a home theater room and floated walls and the floor, installed solid core interior doors, put a separate AC return in the room to allow for a sealed door, plus added thick 50 mil if I remember correctly vinyl in the walls. Reduced almost all high pitched noise but only half to 2/3rds of the mid and low noises. It made a...

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Three answers - insulation, insulation, insulation.

Blown in insulation is an option, requiring only relatively small holes to patch. As pointed out, sound can travel through a variety of conduits. So you may need to get some into the ceiling or floors too. Ducting between rooms can be a problem, especially metal ducts.

If not blown in, you can drill small holes into the wall cavity, then use the canned foam stuff. It will expand heavily, so be VERY careful here. Squirt a little in, then add more.

Next, add wall coverings, perhaps drapes. Soft surfaces will help. They make sound absorbent wallpapers. If the floors in the rooms are not carpeted, consider adding...

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Dreamstime

Today’s houses can be noisy. Though “paper-thin walls” were once the culprit when it came to noise in the house, today’s houses suffer from a combination of open floor plans, lightweight construction, and a multitude of machines and high-tech audio and

video gear

. Good luck trying to find a little peace and quiet.

In this article, we’ll look at the materials and methods that can help quiet the noisy home.

The Noisy Home Syndrome

In many of today’s homes, we’ve removed walls to create a sense of spaciousness. We’ve filled our kitchens with whiz-bang appliances and our family rooms with surround-sound home theaters. Noise has become a byproduct of our busy lives, and accompanying it we’ve created noise pollution.

Sure, noise pollution isn’t like having lead in your paint or microbes in your water, but it’s not just an irritant. It can mess up our sleep, add to our stress, infringe on our privacy, and generally compromise our...

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"Insulation" (in the ordinary construction sense) is essentially worthless for blocking sound. But if you need it for the conventional thermal reasons, then certainly go for it.

When it comes down to the bottom line, nothing BLOCKS sound except MASS. That means either the mass of objects (like walls and doors) or the mass of air (i.e. DISTANCE).

And any gaps in the "envelope" will be HUGE holes in your noise-blocking scheme. So movable walls seem antithetical to the goal of blocking noise.

Yes, mass-loaded vinyl is good for adding mass to block sound. But it is rather an expensive compromise in places where space is at a premium. A layer of sheet-rock dry-wall would have the same effect at a lower cost if you are on a budget.

It is not clear whether you already have a concrete floor? If so, then that is a pretty good advantage. Yes likely a carpet or rug to mitigate internal reflections. And that foam on the walls is not just "decorative". Especially in...

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Soundproof your domestic pump with our sound insulation products

Reduce the noise from your shower pumps and any other domestic pump using high our density rubber mats combined with acoustic foams to reduce the noise. Domestic pumps should be enclosed inside an MDF or plywood box with acoustic insulation material lining the inside to reduce the airborne noise from the pump. Isolate the pump from the floor by placing the pump on top of the high density rubber mats and foam to reduce vibration through the floor.

Domestic pumps can vary in size which means you can buy the materials individually to suit your requirements. We also provide soundproof enclosure kits which include the rubber mats, acoustic foam and high impact contact adhesive for small shower pumps. Please check the quantity of materials supplied in the kit before ordering as we have based this kit on a standard shower pump size.

Buy soundproofing and acoustic sound insulation online 24/7 or CALL...

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1) Irvin C: Do you make Automatic Door Bottoms for sliding glass doors with wooden frames?

Trademark Soundproofing Reply: Hi Irvin. A mortised automatic Door bottom can be used on a sliding door if it gets tightly latched once closed. Unfortunately sliding doors are very difficult to seal properly and are not recommended for areas that require proper sound control. Thanks.

2) Aaron: It's hard to find a door with a flat surface in my size (32x76). How important is it that my door be completely flat?

Trademark Soundproofing Reply:

Hi Aaron. At least 75% should be flat. The more the better. If not try our door barrier panel which does not require a flat surface. We are getting very good feedback on that product.

3) Ciaran: Hi, Can you please explain the difference between mortised, semi-mortised and surface mounted door bottoms and why one is more effective than the other?

Trademark Soundproofing Reply: Hi Ciaran, The mortised (and...

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Blast the exposed wall with damp-blown cellulose, a recycled insulation and sound proofing material.

Made from recycled newspaper, you spray this on the wall, where it naturally fills into cracks and holes for even, solid insulation. Cover up any outlets or pipes with electrical tape before beginning. Wearing a respirator, use the damp-blown cellulose hose to cover the entire wall, starting from the bottom up.

http://pad2.whstatic.com/images/thumb/1/1f/Soundproof-a-Wall-or-Ceiling-Step-3-Version-4.jpg/v4-550px-Soundproof-a-Wall-or-Ceiling-Step-3-Version-4.jpg

http://pad1.whstatic.com/images/thumb/1/1f/Soundproof-a-Wall-or-Ceiling-Step-3-Version-4.jpg/v4-300px-Soundproof-a-Wall-or-Ceiling-Step-3-Version-4.jpg

/c/c8/Soundproof a Wall or Ceiling Step 3 Version 2.360p.mp4

You'll need roughly 260 bags of cellulose for a 4000-square foot house.[2] The fumes are not harmful, but you should still always wear a dust...
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Pumps are often noisy because they are sitting directly on a base with no anti-vibration insulation between. This allows the easy transmission of noise throughout the fabric of the building enabling the pump noise to be heard almost anywhere in the building. Installation of our 10mm thick M10AD anti-vibration mat between the bottom of the pump and the base on which it sits will absorb much of the vibration based noise often experienced. This can be further enhanced if a patio slab is placed on top of the M10AD and another layer of M10AD glued to the top of the slab with the pump attached to a layer of MDF which in turn is glued on top of the M10AD. Particularly effective when applied to domestic shower pumps.

Airborne noise may also be a factor to be addressed and for this we recommend the pump is enclosed within a sound insulated box. 18mm or thicker MDF is good for this and can be lined on the inside with our...

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A soundproof door is a door which has been designed or retrofitted to cut out as much external noise as possible. However, a soundproof door is also very dependent on a well-designed frame, or sound can leak around the edges of the frame. Unwanted noise can also filter through walls and windows, which is an important consideration for people who are attempting to soundproof a room or building.

There are a variety of situations in which a soundproof door can be useful. Musicians and recording studios rely on such doors to keep sounds from getting out, both for the comfort of the neighbors and for the benefit of other musicians and recording facilities which could be compromised by sound leakage. Soundproof doors are also used to seal noisy rooms like boiler rooms and entrances to factory floors. People can also utilize soundproof doors to keep unwanted sound out of their homes.

Several companies specifically manufacture soundproof doors, along with frames. Together,...

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We all know that living with unwanted noise can be terribly inconvenient – causing sleepless nights and stress-filled days. So, whether you are the one making the noise or the one being irritated by the noise, soundproofing a bedroom can be the perfect and in many cases, low-cost solution for everyone living in peaceful harmony.

There are several ways to soundproof your room to prevent sound waves from traveling in or out. If you are a visual person and would like to see it being done step by step, you can check out some informative videos on soundproofing at eHow.com.

Some people have the luxury of soundproofing a room before it is even built. If you fall into this category then you will want to work with your contractor about adding in soundproofing materials into the walls, doors and windows. Your contractor can also work on increasing the thickness of your walls. An article in eHow notes that you can have your contractor add a second wall to an existing wall...

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Soundproofing Tips For Bedroom And Apartment Doors

In a world where technology allows everyone access to your business and personal affairs, it is safe to say that peace and privacy are priceless. The last thing you want when you get home is to deal with other people’s noise and fracas or having to worry about inconveniencing others with your own activities. Besides, what happens behind closed doors is your business- no need for the entire neighborhood to listen in. With this in mind, soundproofing your door begins to sound like a great idea. The process itself is not entirely breezy and will require a lot of decision making, time and financial input. Below are a few tips and guidelines that should help make the process a lot easier for you whether you are a beginner taking on a DIY project or you are an expert.

Why Would You Need To Sound Proof Your Door?

Before we dive into the process itself, it is important to first establish whether or...

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Soundproofing a door of a room, or your apartment door can be an effective solution to prevent noise coming from outside, or avoid disturbing your neighbors in case your room is a bit noisy. With soundproofing, you can sleep soundly, even if the neighbors are partying at night. Also, it will give you the freedom to play loud music without having to hear complains from neighbors. It can also be very effective to block sounds of vehicles or barking of dogs. Soundproofing a door is a simple and an easy DIY project and a great way to soundproof a room. But, one needs to know what will work effectively for their door type. There are many products that will help you soundproof your door. Let's have a look at the options we have in hand in order to soundproof a door.

Tips on Soundproofing a Door

Change the Door
The first thing you need to do is check the door. Many doors have a hollow core. These doors don't provide any soundproofing. So, you will need to invest in a...

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Go to a building supply like Lowes or Home Depot, buy a sheet of foam insulation-foam with foil on both sides. Get the foam type, not the styrofoam as it will shed those damn little beads. Sheet should cost $10 or less. Cut the foam to fit the inside of your door. Cut and Tape together with aluminum tape so you have at least a double layer--also you can get the tape at the building supply. You can tape or tack the foam to the door, should help quite a bit. Also can use as a tack board. You can paint the foil exposed, or maybe wrap an old sheet over it when you tape it to the door. By the way, you may be getting just as much sound through the adjoining walls on either side of the door, guess you could foam over that as well. The foam will absorb a lot more sound than...

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Q: How can I soundproof a door?! I live in a long, narrow apartment. The layout is bedroom 1, kitchen, bathroom, bedroom 2, all connected by a hallway. My bedroom (bedroom 1), used to be a living/dining room, so my bedroom has a door right next to the kitchen. Because of schedule differences, my roommate often pops something into the microwave for a late night snack, an hour or two after I've gone to bed, and wakes me up as I am only 6 feet from the microwave.

How can I better soundproof that door?

Sent by Bethany

Editor: Bethany- having lived with noisy roommates in the past, we sympathize with your dilemma. You can find some pointers on soundproofing a door here that might help you out. You might also want to consider rearranging so your bed so is across the room from the shared wall with the kitchen which should help reduce the noise. Readers, do you have any additional advice for Bethany?

Do you have a Good Question you need answered? Drop us an

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42% of people feel noise affects their private home life in some way.

The next 60 seconds could change your life

Call 0845 363 7131 for more information

Soundproofing a Pump

Noisy pumps is often a problem that is disturbing from small domestic pumps to much larger industrial pumps but the soundproofing solution to reduce the noise from affecting others is basically the same regardless of size. Noise from small domestic pumps is one of the biggest problems often encountered and because these are usually found in the home moving domestic water either to taps or showers. Because these pumps are high speed they can generate a lot of noise that is easily transmitted around the home by both airborne noise and structure borne noise. Airborne noise is the type of noise that you can easily hear when you are closer to where the pump is sited whereas structure borne sound is when you can still hear the pump regardless of where you are in the building. As the...

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Take a look at a few of our favorite products:

Dampening & deadening materials are often used in situations where extreme temperatures or limited space is an issue. From the best soundproofing material for automobiles to paintable solutions our options are udderly amazing!

Put the finishing touches on any total-room soundproofing solution with a door seal or sweep to completely block the noise. Our Quiet Door™ line shrinks the amount of sound escaping from around and under a door to the absolute minimum. Airspace around a door is like leaving a window cracked, sound will flow right through.

Soundproof living and office spaces with floor underlayments designed for a range of flooring options. These sound reducing materials provide airborne sound protection and vibration control caused by “Impact”. Not sure which underlayment is needed for a location? Talk to a member of our sales team. Let us put our experience to work! We have options available for carpeting,...

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Living in an apartment with loud roommates? The apartment you live in is small and all noises come straight into your bedroom. Is there an easy way to lessen the noise and soundproof my door and room myself? Yes there are many things you can do when it comes to soundproofing to get your bedroom door (that is most likely hollow) to absorb and block the loud sounds. If noise cannot be stopped from the source, you need to block and or absorb it. Living in an apartment makes it so you are unable to replace things like doors. We are going to show you a few ways to successfully soundproof a room that has a cheap hollow door.

The first thing we recommend is trying to dampen the sound near the source. If the living room, dining room or kitchen has tile or wood floors, the sound has no way of being absorbed. The easiest thing to do in this situation is buy some cheap rugs for the kitchen or one big rug for the living or dining room. This will help absorb the sound before it...

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When soundproofing walls, if you are going to solve your noise problems, you will have to go beyond the Building Code. North American Building Codes are not very helpful with noise levels. Commercial and residential walls built to code will not satisfy most people.

When soundproofing walls, to reduce sound it is ideal to apply the soundproofing materials on the noise-producing side of the wall, if possible. In a re-model, if your neighbor is the noisy one, you may have to treat your side.

Commercial steel stud walls can easily be upgraded, as between a salon and spin class in a strip mall. Standard drywall and insulation is used to contain costs when soundproofing walls this way.

SPC Solution 3 and Solution 2 for Soundproofing Walls have significantly better low frequency (bass) isolation. This makes them advantageous if music or sound systems are involved. Let’s take a closer look at each of these solutions for soundproofing walls.
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Combining acoustic underlayment with acoustic mats beneath a floor reduces the effects of both airborne noise from televisions, stereos or speech and impact noise from footsteps and furniture being moved. If the problem is solely impact noise, underlayment alone may suffice. Remove the coverings to reveal the floor. If the floor is to be carpeted, leave the baseboard in place and proceed as shown below. For other floorings, remove the baseboard molding and lay out the acoustic underlayment, butting the lengths up against one another and allowing them to lap a short distance up the wall. Tape all joints, and then lay acoustic mat, ensuring that any seams do not coincide with the joins of the underlayment. Lay a floating tongue-and-groove chipboard floor over the top, and trim the edges of the underlayment. You may then install further floor coverings, such as laminated...

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1) Bill: I'm about to move into an attached house (row house). I'm not sure if sound proofing will work in this situation. There is a cinder block and brick common wall between the houses. The current sheetrock is on 1" furring strips attached to the sheetrock. I can sometimes hear music or conversation at a very low level coming through. I am not sure if it is coming up from the basement where there are some gaps in the wall that need fixing or over the ceiling. It sounds like through the wall. If I retrofit, then will the sound go away? Or is at so low a level now that it would be impossible to reduce it further? Is green glue, acoustical caulk and regular sheetrock enough or should I use Quiet Rock. thanks

Trademark Soundproofing Reply: Hi Bill, The GG is a very good performer on low frequency sounds, as in the ones that you are hearing. Being that you do not have insulation in the wall, performance is not at it's maximum. Standard sheetrock and GG will suffice. If you...

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