Tapering/mitering table legs on a table saw without someone helping


Cut the plywood 3 inches longer than your table leg. Set your fence at 6 inches but do not lock it down. Lay your plywood down on the saw with the leading edge touching the saw blade and the inside edge flush with the fence.

Lay your table leg down on the plywood, the top of the leg even with the top of the plywood with the left side of the leg even with the inside edge of the saw blade. Set your fence 1 inch from the leg. Parallel the leg with the fence all the way down.

Draw a line with the pencil down the inside of the leg and stop at the bottom of the leg and remove the leg. Mark the place where the bottom of the leg terminates and make a mark 1 inch to the left. Now lay a straight edge from that mark to the point where the line begins, creating a 1-inch taper.

Lay a framing square down on your plywood, aligning it with the new tapered line, starting where the bottom of the leg terminates, with the leg of the square pointing to the left. Now draw that...

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You have gotten a lot of good advice! Everyone replying makes great sense, and I tend to agree with the mantra of having both a miter saw AND a table saw. If you were to get just one, though, it will be your decision based on your future needs. Miter saws are handy as heck, and I use mine all the time. The table saw, however, is one of my most favorite tools. If you take the time to make an adjustable angle miter jig in the form of a sliding table, you can do most everything a miter box "chop saw" can. I've done everything from picture frames to window trim to compound crown molding trim.

Granted, if you are cutting lengthy pieces of trim or molding, the chop saw is much to be desired. If, however, you want to do some furniture or cabinet work down the road that involves dados or rabbets, you can hang your sliding jig on the wall and use the table saw to its full...

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For many woodworkers, the table saw is the one tool that gets the most use - I know that is true for me. Having a good table saw makes all of the cutting tasks a little easier, especially if it has advanced features. Unfortunately, good table saws with advanced features usually have a high price tag attached. Being frugal (cheap) and always up for a challenge, I went to work to build my own table saw.
Here's how it turned out:

Some key features are a homemade Biesemeyer style fence that locks to the front rail, a max ripping capacity of 34", a sliding table with max crosscut capacity of 24", 3" max depth of cut (with a 10" blade) and an integrated outfeed table with dust collection.

The base is a simple plywood box with 4 sides. Made from 3/4" maple plywood, it has 2" x 2" solid wood cleats to join the corners with screws. On top of this box is a plywood and oak frame that supports the motor assembly, sliding table and the top.

Shown here is the frame and...

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I think like all other trends, skinny pants look good only on certain people. They look good on people who are pretty thin with small hips; they achieve this graceful thin shape throughout. But for women with an even slightly bigger booty, flares are best, for balancing it out. And when a really skinny girl wears pants with wider flares, she usually looks even skinner because there's so much weight on the bottom portion than on top. Trends are great and fun, but be careful to wear what looks good on YOU. I mean, there are certain trends I love but can't wear because of my body type, face shape, skin color, etc. I think it's better to look beautiful than to show people you're keeping up with the...

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Anyone who has used a table saw knows (or should know) they can be dangerous. Obviously, cutting a very shallow angle like the one used for these legs absolutely cannot be done safely by just sticking the board into the blade.

If cutting the board on the edge like this, the blade height, even when fully raised, is not tall enough to cut all the way through the 2x4, especially if held in a jig.

Another goal was to have a nice, potentially stainable grain on the outside edges of the legs. Any ugly unfinished tears to the grain of the board needed to be on the inside where no one would see it. Yet another goal was to not put any holes, nail or screw marks into any "finished" side of the board.

So, the solution is to make a jig that holds the board in place, and run the board through the table saw twice. Once on one side, then once on the other...

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Top-mounted toggle clamps excel where other clamps fall short. Here are five situations where toggle clamps can save the day.

Toggle clamps don’t usually get the same attention as their larger two-jawed cousins, because their applications are more specialized. You might not even think to buy some until there’s a pressing need for them. Without them, you’ll struggle to find another way to solve a clamping problem where a toggle would be the perfect choice. They come in two basic options — those that apply force down toward the base of the clamp and those that drive a plunger laterally away from the base. Having a couple of pairs of each type can prevent hand strain and often help you work more safely. Here are five woodworking scenarios where toggle clamps can really help.

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How to make a jointing / taper jig In this vid I show how I built a jointing /taper jig for my table saw. I cut a oak runner and make some hold downs with adjustable height , and I build some solid knobs for the hold downs. This jig is very handy if you are thinking of build one I suggest you get st...

Table Saw Taper Jig By Peachtree Woodworking - Pw1254

TABLE SAW TAPER JIG By Peachtree Woodworking - PW1254 Best Price TABLE SAW TAPER JIG By Peachtree Woodworking - PW1254 Details: ~ Aluminum construction with built in scale and fully adjustable ~ Backside stop to hold wood in place ~ Can be assembled for either left or right hand use. ~ 3"...

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