Tester showing ground, but I am not seeing a ground

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This is a picture postcard application for a GFCI outlet. Attach it to the black and white wires without ground. That is code legal for this type of situation, but the outlet should be labeled "no equipment grounding conductor". At that point you can plug 3-prong appliances into it. The GFCI provides much of the protection of the ground. This doesn't satisfy every appliance, but it is, at least, not unsafe.

I an skeptical that this is actually grounded because I see both conductors disappearing into a 1/2" hole, and with all the debris on the bottom of the box, I don't see the normal hardware I'd expect to see from the conduit joiner or the BX clamp. An unguarded knockout hole is a real problem. It may look ok now, but when you put the outlet back in and tighten it down, it could pinch and damage the conductor.

This is not 1949 work. The outlet is grounded and worse, has those vile "back stabs". That introduces the real possibility that the wire-run is a retrofit...

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you can check the resistance to ground at the main service panel in your home by connecting a megohm meter the the grounding electrode conductor. this is usually a larger #6 AWG wire with green insulation that leaves the panel and runs outside to the ground rod.

your resistance, from this location, should by less than 25 OHMS. I would suggest you have a professional electrician do this, as it requires opening a hot panel. if you do it, SWITCH OFF THE MAIN BREAKER!

the cold water ground is a supplemental ground, also usually a green #6 wire, that is required if the resistance to ground on the grounding electrode conductor is more than 25 OHMS.

to check the grounds on your branch and lighting circuits you, first TURN OFF THE CIRCUITS TO BE TESTED. second, remove the device from the wall or ceiling (you can leave devices connected where practical). third, use a multi-meter or a "wiggy" to check continuity to ground. connect the leads of the meter to the ground...

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Originally Posted by

tap

I have a GFCI outlet which shows proper wiring (no open ground, reversed wires, etc.) when tested with a 3prong GFCI analyzer. The test button on the GFCI itself will shut off power as it should, but the GFCI tester will not trip the outlet when the test button is pressed. I've been told (second hand) that this indicates reversed wiring, but the analyzer and visual inspection show the wiring to be correct.

Your tester does not test for reversed LINE and LOAD.

Only a new GFCI receptacle will do that.

> This is wiring to a pond pump and I'm concerned that I may not have the protection I think I do.

Correct. If the GFCI is more than a few years old, replace it.
When the new one won't RESET, you'll realize that LINE and LOAD are reversed in spite of your visual inspection.

Are the wires connected to LINE or to LOAD terminals?

They are clearly labeled. But if in doubt, post a photo.
We can tell which is which...

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I have worked on this for days now and I have finally invented my own solution: Add a rigidbody to the camera (not sure if necessary). Add a collider to the camera that has "IsTrigger" checked.

Script:

var target : Transform; var smoothTime = 0.3; private var velocity = Vector3.zero; private var colliding : boolean = false;

function OnTriggerEnter (){ colliding = true; }

function OnTriggerExit (){ colliding = false; }

function Update(){ if (colliding){ transform.localPosition = Vector3.SmoothDamp(transform.localPosition, Vector3(0,1,0), velocity, smoothTime); } else{ var hit : RaycastHit; if (Physics.Raycast(transform.position, -transform.forward, hit, 1.5)){ print ("ray has hit"); } else{ transform.localPosition = Vector3.SmoothDamp(transform.localPosition, Vector3(0,3.5,-6), velocity, smoothTime); } } }

This works with the "IsTrigger" variable of the collider component. When the camera hits something (OnTriggerEnter function), a variable...

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OK, apparently Lord Valve has reverse engineered this dongle: (from a newsgroup discussion on google or yahoo)

Someone else mentioned the old XHUM used 3A diodes but the current Ebtech website says they use 6A diodes. They are antiparallel on the ground lead as previously known, and there's a 1K 1/2W resistor in parallel to the diodes. Should I leave this in or out? Geekslutz could help me out here...

I am going to build some with 10A diodes I just ordered for extra safety.

Without further ado lord valve:

"OK, kiddies - pull up a chair.

The $90 Hum-X works *really* well. So well,
in fact, that most people think some heavy mojo
must be involved...but inside that slick little adaptor
is a very primitive (but clever) little circuit. In a
standard AC receptacle, you have three contacts -
hot, neutral, and ground. The hot and neutral lines
pass straight through the adaptor, although...

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Customer: replied 8 years ago.

This situation occurred in a 1927-built multi-unit brick building. Now a condo type. The wiring is 2-wire with conduit - I think. Most of the duplex outlets are OK, but 3 or 4 in the Living Room / Foyer area show open ground.

I opened the faulty units and put in a new wire from the receptacle's grounding screw to the screw holding the receptacle to the metal electrical box. This did not correct the problem.

I don't think it would be possible to pull a third ground wire through the conduit buried in the walls - even if the two old wires were used to try and pull in 3 new wires. The old wires have the thick older style insulation and I have no way to determine the routing of the conduit in the walls or how the wiring is routed to different boxes in the circuit. Some of the receptacles on this circuit are showing correct wiring.

I can't see how I can connect grounding wires together when there aren't any....

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Since we are sharing, I thought I would post some info about my base station. Its all a self contained unit, so I just need to it put it on the tripod, turn the switch on, connect the camera and goggles and I am ready to fly.

14 Db patch antenna

6db whip antenna

Yellowjacket Diversity Rx

box and other parts
see the digikey attachment

Pan and tilt mechanism
Pan Mechanism
Tilt Mechanism

Screen
taken from an OEM nissan overhead DVD player

Inside is a cheap radio shack video distribution amp for running the screen, goggles, and camera simultaneously.

on the side is a radio shack RCA connector block for breaking out the video and allowing outside devices to plug in like my video goggles and Digital camcorder for recording video.

Inside is a standard BEC and RC receiver for pan and tilt. I am using 2 channels on my Tx for controlling this function. As I am flying if I notice that the display begins...

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When we bought Barefoot Gal, one of the survey items said that there was an open ground on the inverter. We’d been there as the surveyor was testing and I saw that he was using a simple outlet tester similar to the one we used on Que Tal when we plugged into shore power to make sure there wasn’t a problem with reverse polarity. All of the outlets powered by shore power tested just fine; it was only the inverter outlet that had an open ground.

If you’re not familiar with these outlet testers, here’s the one we have (on Amazon) – they’re great for telling you about dodgy shore power. Lots of different brands are available and our experience is that there’s virtually no difference between brands.

We were planning to replace the very old modified sine wave inverter that was on the boat with a new, larger, pure sine wave inverter (if you’re not familiar with the differences between modified sine wave and pure sine wave inverters, read Inverters 101). Consequently,...

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when you stay low nothing happens

Когда ты не в духе, ничего не происходит.

does it feel right?

Верно ли это?

Late at night

Поздно ночью

things I thought I put behind me

То, о чем я думала, но оставила позади,

haunt my mind

Преследует мой разум.

I just know there's no escape

Я знаю лишь, что не смогу убежать

now once it sets it's eyes on you

Теперь, когда эта встреча неизбежна.

but I won't run, have to stare it in the eye

Я не побегу, я загляну страху в глаза.

Stand my ground, I won't give in

Я буду стоять на своём, я не уступлю.

no more denying, I got to face it

Бесспорно, я должна столкнуться с этим лицом к лицу.

won't close my eyes and hide the truth inside

Я не стану закрывать глаза и скрывать правду.

if I don't make it, someone else will stand my ground

Если я этого не сделаю, кто-то другой займёт моё...

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+ --------------------------------------------------------------------- + | Ultimate Guitar Tabs Archive - your #1 source for tabs! | | http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/ | | | | Over 1,000,000 guitar, guitar pro and bass tabs! Also lessons | | news and guitar forums! | + --------------------------------------------------------------------- + Within Temptation Stand My Ground (Acoustic) Tabbed By Yousif Jamal --------------------------- Capo 1st Fret Chords Used Bm = x24432 G = x55433 Em = 022000 Cm = x35543 Am = x02210 ----------------------------- Bm I can Feel G when you stay low nothing happens Em does it feel right ? Bm Late at night G things i thought i put behind me Em haunt my mind Bm I just know theres no escape now once it sets its eyes on you G but i wont run, have to stare it in the eye Em ...
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Rob wrote me and asked, in essense, “What do I have to do to become a ground instructor?”

Maybe it’s the economy and people are looking to utilize their skills sets but I am glad that so many people are thinking about instructing! Whether it is ground or flight instruction, general aviation needs you!

First off, there are three levels of a ground instructor certificate. (You can reference 14 CFR 61.215)

1) Basic (BGI)– A basic ground instructor can provide the required knowledge training for a sport pilot, recreational or private pilot. You can also accomplish the knowledge portion of the flight review test and recommend someone to take the knowledge tests (written) for one of those certificates.

2) Instrument (IGI) – An instrument ground instructor is able to provide the required knowledge training for a pilot applicant seeking a instrument rating. Similarly to the BGI, you are also able to recommend someone for the instrument written exam.

2)...

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Fluke Earth Ground Testers: The First Line of Defense in Detecting Reliable Ground Connections

Fluke 1623-2 Earth Ground Tester »

The Fluke 1623-2 Earth Ground Tester offers all 4 primary test methods: 3- and 4-pole Fall of Potential earth resistance loop testing, 4-pole Soil Resistivity testing, selective earth ground rod testing, and stakeless earth ground rod testing

Fluke 1625-2 Earth Ground Tester »

The Fluke 1625-2 Earth Ground Tester offers all 4 primary test methods, and makes testing even faster with adjustable limits, Automatic Frequency Control (AFC) to minimize existing interference, and higher accuracy 55 Hz R* measurements.

Fluke 1630 Earth Ground Clamp Meter »

The Fluke 1630 simplifies earth ground loop testing and enables non-intrusive leakage current measurement using a technique that does not require breaking the circuit.

Fluke 1621 GEO Earth Ground Tester »

The 1621 is an easy-to-use earth ground tester that...

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What is electricity?
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There is a type of device (receptacle, switch, ...) that is called "self-grounding" that is used in these applications -- there is a spring clip on each end that is pressed firmly against the box wall by the mounting screw at that end. It appears that your receptacle lacks that -- which means either a bare ground pigtail from the green screw to a 10-32 screwed into the box should be installed, or your receptacle should be replaced with a self-grounding type.

As to the fact you have conduit -- yes, metallic conduit is allowed to serve as a ground path instead of a wire -- and in many ways, it is a higher standard: you can add wires without having to rerun cable, and you can't accidentally put a nail into a wire either. There is one problem though, and that is that the thin type of "conduit" that has come into wide use recently, known as Electrical Metallic Tubing or EMT, eschews the pipe-style threaded joints of regular conduit (RMC or IMC) in favor of a set-screw connection...

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The grounding conductor in an electrical system provides a safe path for fault currents to travel along. It's there to prevent electrocution.

Let's say we have a toaster.

Inside the toaster are two conductors, a black ungrounded (hot) conductor, and a white grounded (neutral) conductor.

To heat the toaster, current flows into the heating element through the ungrounded (hot) conductor, through the heating element, out of the heating element and back to the source through the grounded (neutral) conductor.

Now let's say there is a short between the ungrounded (hot) conductor, and the metal frame of the toaster.

Since the frame is metal; and conducts electricity, it is now electrified.

If you then touch the toaster; and you're sufficiently grounded, current will flow through you to the ground. This could lead to a nasty shock, or potentially death.

Now let's see what happens when we have a toaster...

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The wiring in your home consists of the "line" or "hot" wire, the neutral wire and in for at least the past couple decades, a ground wire. In the United States the common color coding for these wires are black or red for the hot wire, white for the neutral wire and green or bare wire for the ground wire.

Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any testing or repairs.

To test whether an outlet is properly grounded, you will need an inexpensive tool called a circuit tester (you can also use a multimeter set to AC voltage appropriate for the outlet you are testing). Standard outlets have a large slot, a small slot and a "U" shaped hole. In a properly wired outlet, the smaller slot is "hot", the large slot is neutral and the "U" shaped hole is ground.

Insert one probe of the circuit tester into the small slot and the other probe into the large probe. If the circuit tester lights up, you have power to the outlet. Now place one probe in...

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My earthing/Ground pin shows voltage

The earth pin of my domestic power supply is showing voltage since one month

When I measure with multimeter, I see Phase to neutral 220 V; Neutral to Earth 35 V and Phase to earth only 150 V.

When I switch on table top computer or desktop, the voltage in earth to neutral rises to 65-68V.

I have 220V AC single phase supply in my home. This earth voltage is seen in all sockets.

I think earth pin should never show any voltage and neutral to earth should not show any voltage or maybe a few Volts. And phase to earth should show full 220V.

The tester shows dim light when gadgets like fridge etc are touched on their body nuts.

Presumably what you are referring to as "neutral" is supposed to be connected to earth at your service point. If so, there is no way the values you are measuring could possibly be true in a single phase system.

It could be a measurement error (or an operator error in...

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I came across a house yesterday that had no ground rod, just the grounding conductor hanging from the house. The house was about 3 years old and was occupied. Hmm, didn't think the power company would put in a meter without a grounding rod.

I looked around the garage (where the panel was located) for a box where a UFER connection might be but found nothing. Exposed plumbing didn't have any bonding either. So I am thinking the system is not grounded. FWIW, the electric service was provided via buried laterals.

Since there was no visible means of grounding, I called it out for an electrician.

For grins and giggles I whipped out my Sure Test, it indicated "Wiring OK".

Now I am wondering was the Sure Test wrong? I would think that it would have indicated a "No Ground" condition or is it not that smart?

Any...

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So you find yourself in a place (maybe a new apartment?) with apparently no Ground in the electrical outlets. This is probably because they are all 2-prong outlets, or maybe you've used an outlet checker and it says the Ground is no good. What can you do? By far the best solution technically is to re-wire the building, but let's look for the less expensive, more practical things if you are not the owner planning major home upgrades.

You have several issues to deal with here, starting from the apparent situation that there is no reliable Ground anywhere. A Ground is used for two purposes: part of a protection system for wiring or circuit faults that mistakenly send real power to the computer's chassis that is accessible to people; and removing static charges and electrical signal noise while they are at low levels, before they build up to troublesome.

1. Assume you have no Ground anywhere. Even if there are a few three-prong outlets in walls, they MAY have been...

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OK, I have my own thoughts on this situation,

but I am looking for others to put there 2 cents in.

Here is what I do know:
1) The wiring maybe tied to an old two wire system, but the wiring in the box is 12-2 NM with ground.

2) One or more outlets are on this circuit and at least one has the same voltage noted below.

a) When I meter between the hot and neutral I get a voltage reading of 119VAC
b) When I meter between the hot and ground I get a voltage reading of 100VAC

Poor ground

c) When I meter between the neutral and ground I get a voltage reading of 14VAC

phantom voltage (because of a poor ground) did you have a low Z meter or try to shunt your meter with a 25W bulb?

3) I don’t know what other load, if any, is on this circuit.

4) There are three switches that are feed by the line side of the GFCI.

5) Each one of the switches controls one function of a combination bath fan, heater, and light...

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For many of today's operators and mechanics, electrical systems can be one of the most intimidating areas of your equipment on which to work. After all, you can't see electricity flowing through a wire, most people don't have a great deal of training in today's electrical systems and electrical components have a reputation for being finicky. However, without a properly functioning electrical system, your machine will not work the way it was intended, if at all. Fortunately, even though the electrical-system section in your operators' manuals has gotten bigger in the past few years, the basics have not really changed much. And, with a few simple tools, you should be able to perform most of your own troubleshooting.

For the purposes of this article, we will break down a machine's electrical troubleshooting into five main systems. They are the ignition system, charging system, cranking system, safety-interlock system (including PTO and fuel shutoff) and the accessory system....

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