Vent now blows on thermostat


Yes, play with closing the flaps of however many it takes. It really depends on who, how & when the ducts were installed, balance is the aim but the only thing that does get balanced (maybe) is what's in use at the time the system goes active.

In my house, I have to keep 2 vents closed year round & then heating & cooling seasons have to have additional & different vents opened or closed for fairly uniform temperatures.

If things level out for you with just the thermostat vent shut, then leave it that way or you can possibly go to a new vent whose fins blow the air to either side & never at the thermostat. Also, you might be able to move the thermostat out of the hallway...

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You are dealing with a heat pump, which both heats and cools electrically but usually very economically. During heating season, the freon circulation is simply reversed, putting latent heat from the outside atmosphere into your home.

Emergency heat can be activated for several reasons:

1. The freon charge is insufficient or gone and the back up electric heat strips kick on to answer the heat demand from your thermostat. There is usually an odor when this happens the first time due to dust burn off on the heating elements.

2. If the thermostat is set 4 or so degrees above the room temperature, the emergency heat will kick in to supplement the freon-supplied heat to bring the temperature in the house up more quickly. Once the temperature in the house gets close to the thermostat setting, emergency heat will turn off automatically. Often, this doesn't mean the freon charge is low, especially if the AC was working well during the summer.
This is the most common...

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Neither. The second choice is closer to true, but is also incorrect.

First, some assumptions. For purposes of answering this question, we assume this is a typical central air conditioning system in a private home. The air that comes out of your registers is cooled as it flows past a coil for a set amount of time at a set rate. Because of this, when the air conditioning is first switched on in a hot house, the air entering the coil is hot, and the coil will reduce it's temperature by a finite amount. So if we assume the incoming air is 90 degrees F and the coil can drop the temperature of that air by removing heat by 15 degrees, the outgoing "cool" air would be 75 degrees, the temperature coming out of your registers (assuming it doesn't regain heat between the coil and the register). As the home cools, the air entering the coil drops (for our purposes of illustration, to 80 degrees F), resulting in a corresponding drop in the air leaving the registers (now at 65F).

The end...

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Heating or cooling room thermostat diagnosis: how to troubleshoot a heating or cooling room thermostat that is not working at all or is not working properly. Here we suggest step by step procedures in diagnosing HVAC thermostat problems such as a thermostat that is not working at all or one that shows a blank thermostat display or a thermostat that does not turn heat on or off at the right temperatures.

Page top photo: a basic room thermostat showing the red and white wires being switched by the thermostat and a place where it's easy to check for voltage .

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Heating & Cooling Control Thermostat Troubleshooting Guide

If your heat won't turn on at all, the problem may not be at the thermostat at all. Start at HEAT WON'T TURN...

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Any assistance would be appreciated:
I have a 1300 sf attached single family (end unit) in Alexandria, VA. The previous owner installed an attic vent fan with a thermostat. At what temperature should I set the thermostat to achieve maximum efficiency from the HVAC system and the fan.

There are no soffit vents or ridge vents.
I have the fan thermostat set at 112F and I keep the 2 story home at 76/77F.


If you have no soffit vents or ridge vents, you should not operate the fan.

Originally Posted by


If you have no soffit vents or ridge vents, you should not operate the fan.

Really? Why is that? This is my frist home, so I am pretty green on certain topics, HVAC being one of them. When the fan is running, where is it getting air from?

If a negative pressure is created in the attic because the fan is pulling air out of the attic, the only place the air can come from to replace that negative...

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The problem is most likely the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off blows when the high-limit thermostat fails and since these parts are wired in series with the heating element, power to the heating element is therefore terminated. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off and if it reads open, replace it along with the high-limit thermostat.

You can bypass the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat for troubleshooting purposes. Join together the wires of each part and insulate it properly then reconnect power. The two components indeed need to be replaced if the dryer heats up. If not and still no power to the heating element, check the continuity of the heating circuit. Check the continuity/resistance of the heating element if there's power to its terminals but doesn't heat. Replace the heating element if it reads open.

Let us know if you need further advice. Just indicate the exact model number of the dryer for accurate...

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This time of year, especially when it gets cold outside in the evenings, we get many calls from homeowners concerned that there is cold air blowing out of the duct registers in their home when their heat is running. We wanted to address this, as many times homeowners think this is an issue with their heating and cooling system, but if they have a heat pump, it's actually typically a very normal process.

Don't know if you have a heat pump? Check out this article, on how to tell if your unit is a heat pump or air conditioner.

Let's understand the basics of how a heat pump works:

In the summer, a heat pump picks up the heat in your home and dumps it outside.

In the winter, your heat pump picks up heat from the outside and dumps it into your home (yes, even when it's cold outside). Now, that may be hard to grasp, but this is the way it works.

In the summer, your indoor coil is cold (and pulls humidity out of the air, and comes in the form of water)...

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2. I agree with you – comfortable temperatures do take priority over colored lights and smart refrigerators. Can you expand on what we are doing wrong with how we heat and cool our homes?

Yuliy: The majority of North American homes have one thermostat, which can only measure the temperature in the surrounding area. The thermostat doesn’t “know” what is happening in the south facing rooms, rooms on top of a garage, or in the basement. As a result, we keep adjusting the temperature on the thermostat up or down to make it bearable for all those “trouble rooms.” There is nothing on the market that is affordable and easy to install to fix this issue. This is why we created IglooControl. In my house, every room has a perfect temperature, and I want other people to enjoy this level of comfort.

3. Every room in your home has the perfect temp? I’m jealous! I have to ask, where did the inspiration for IglooControl come from?

Yuliy: My son’s room was located above the...

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Recently bought a house with a vivint security system with a smart thermostat that had a schedule turned on by previous owners. After getting that turned off I was excited to not wake up to a 59 degree house, wake up the next day and it's 59.5 after checking the thermostat set at 70, it must have ran all night.

Now, my problem, the unit runs, condenser fan works with no squeaks or odd sounds, no ice on the coils around fan, there's just no air blowing through the vents. If I put the unit fan setting to ON I can feel just a little air which seems to be enough to keep the house around 65 if it runs all night set at 70.

Hope this makes sense, also I'm wondering how to find a quality hvac company to do an...

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Anyone have a solution to replacing these types of fan thermostats? I have two of these that I cannot reach without climbing over a blower or crawling through a crawl space. The sensor must remain in this location due to needing to be at the highest & hottest place in the house roof, but I would like to bring the control to both thermostats to a more convenient location and of course ideally into my Vera Plus.

I could probably turn the thermostat down to make it pass current at the lowest temp and then use a regular Zwave switch that is triggered using an Ecobee remote sensor in place of the standard wall switch on the circuit, but then I would still have to get up there to replace the battery in the sensor from time to time so will have to figure out an AC powered temp...

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Perhaps he can.

No disrespect intended, but I've repeatedly asked questions you have refused to answer. Perhaps they are beneath you, but I know nothing about this stuff. I've provided all the information I can under the circumstances, and I can't figure out how to get inside the package unit, but I'll keep trying. In the meantime, could you please answer for me, if you know:

- Is it normal for the blower to come on with all wires disconnected from the thermostat?

- Should I leave the unit on and running? Could I be doing damage by leaving it running or should I shut it off (flipping the 25A breaker outside is the only way I can do that)?

And here is a new one:

- You keep calling it a furnace. Why is that? This is a package unit, and it's not putting out heat or cold, although it is blowing. Am I specifically looking for the furnace component of this unit?

I'll take another crack at opening the unit tomorrow, but if you could please...

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Troubleshooting and repairing a clothes dryer that blows cold air may not be a project for a beginner. No matter whether the dryer is heated by electricity or gas, to troubleshoot and repair it effectively requires familiarity with the use of a digital or analog multimeter, knowing how to use it to make continuity and resistance readings.

Simple Things First

Although it is not common, it is possible the problem with an electrically heated clothes dryer is a partially tripped circuit breaker, where only one of the hot legs trips open, while the other remains closed. Since the dryer motor operates on 120 volts, the motor continues to operate, but the dryer's heating element does not work because it needs 240 volts -- which requires both hot legs. Try resetting the circuit breaker before taking apart the dryer. With a gas-heated dryer, make sure the gas to the dryer has not been shut off before disassembling the dryer for troubleshooting.

Dryer Service...

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“Why the HECK is my air conditioner blowing warm/hot air?” I don’t think anyone could ask that question in a non-ticked off tone, considering Arizona’s “wonderful” summer weather and all.

Anyway, down to brass tacks.

Your air conditioner blowing hot air out the vents could be caused by a variety of problems.

Here’s an overview of a few common Issues:

Thermostat is on the wrong fan setting Refrigerant leak Dirty air filter Dirty outside A/C unit Tripped breaker

Let’s go into each of these in more detail.

1) Thermostat is on the wrong fan setting

Your thermostat’s fan setting controls (you guessed it) the fan in the air handler, which is your A/C’s inside unit.

Check the fan setting now. What is it set on??

If it’s set to “On” you may have found the problem. “On” means the fan runs 24/7—even when the air isn’t being cooled. That’s why the air may feel warm or hot sometimes.

Solution: Turn your fan setting to “Auto,”...

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Common Thermostat Problems...more advanced to follow, but start with the basics first.Work with the power off whenever possible.When a furnace does not work it may be caused by problems with the furnace or the thermostat.

Before troubleshooting your thermostat, check to see if all filters are clean and all hoses to and from the units themselves are free of wear.
If these are not causing problems, then it is time to look at specific thermostat issues and possible solutions.

Your thermostat could have aging wiring that is faulty or the transformer may require replacing.

A thermostat may need cleaning to eliminate erratic operation.

Accumulated dust is a common culprit.

First, you should have a small paintbrush, a screwdriver, and a voltmeter.

anticipator is a small metal tab positioned in front of an arcing printed scale. Give it a light push in both directions. This easy step may solve the

Give the thermostat's...

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