What can I do about a toilet flange that is 1/4" below the floor


I usually use the thickest wax ring I can find with the plastic funnel thing embedded in it. If it's a little too thick, the extra wax will just squeeze out a bit underneath the toilet. Sometimes its necessary to double up on the ring (use two - one with the funnel one without) to make a good seal on a flange after installing a thick (tile) floor in a bathroom which I kind of assume is your issue.

If the closet collar is even with the top of the finished floor, no amount of wax will stop the water from coming out. It may not happen right away, but it sure will. One way to fix this problem is to attempt to raise the closet collar so that it will rest on top of the finished floor. Another way is to buy a closet collar extension. Either way the toilet will be held to the floor and the wax ring should then seal tight.

It depends... The advice above is good however if you have one of the newer "Super Toilets" such as the Toto Drake or Am Std Champion the outlet hole...

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3 signs of a toilet leaking at the flange

Cross-section of toilet

Water on the floor, water stains on the ceiling or an occasional smell of sewer gas are all signs of a possible leak.

Do you notice a small pool of water where your toilet meets the floor? Does the floor around the toilet feel spongy? Is the finished flooring coming up? If so, you probably have a bad seal between the toilet horn (where the waste exits) and the drain line. Don’t procrastinate any longer. Small leaks trapped beneath the toilet will eventually rot floor surfaces, and even the underlying framing. Wait too long and repair costs rise, especially when you figure in replacing finished flooring and sometimes underlayments, subfloors or even the framing.

In this article, we’ll show you some tips for pulling the toilet (Photos 1 – 3) and then how to diagnose and fix the common causes of leaks. Finally, we’ll show you how to reset the toilet. After pulling the toilet and examining...

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I am putting in a new floor and toilet. Its vinyl sheet and will go over a new 1/4" underlayment. I am uncertain as to where in relation to the top of the new floor should the toilet flange be located?

That is, should it be protruding 1/4" above the top of the new floor? Should it be totally on top of the new floor? Should it be below the top of the new floor? Should it be level with the top of the new floor?

By looking at the bottom of the new toilet, where the seal goes, its flush with the bottom sides of the toilet...thus sitting on level floor the bottom of the bowl will be in contact with the floor as well as the opening that the seal goes around. If the flange is above the top of the floor then it would seem as if the toilet would be seated directly on the flange. Maybe causing it to rock? I don't know how the seal would work either if the bowl is in direct contact with the flange.

Any information appreciated....Thanks for reading my...

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Make life easier:

Using the bathroom when you're older or have a disability can be tough. Just getting up and down from the toilet can be difficult. One of the issues we find is the residential style toilet seat height, at 15" is too low. The ADA handicap toilet has a seat 17" high. The 2" gain doesn't seem like much but can make all the difference. You can use one of those raised toilet seats but (our experience they can get unsanitary and don't last). We recommend replacing your residential style with an ADA toilet. Toilet grab bars and handrails installed in your bathroom will help avoid injury by providing safety, additional support and balance when sitting, standing or transferring from a wheelchair or walker, increasing your independence at home. Forward reach is important, that's why the ADA specifies a bar extending 54" from the back wall, 33" to 36" high, see ADA toilet grab bar location specification. (opens a new window). Not everyone has the required...

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