What kind of wire do I need for 3 LED strips?

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It's hard to advise without knowing more about what other lighting will be in those areas and the type of activities you will have going on in the larger room. LED strip lights are great for kitchen task lighting under the cabinets. Personally, I prefer LED over traditional halogen in that situation because they produce less (almost no) heat, more even light distribution, and of course, lower energy usage. Putting them on a dimmer also allows an evening night-light in the kitchen, providing just a very dim glow when you are stumbling to the fridge. Here is a video that shows the differences in the various LED strip lighting. LED Strip differences - Epoxy vs Silicon, 5050 SMD vs 3528 SMD

SMD 3528 is a single chip and SMD 5050 has three chips sometimes known as “Tri-Chip”. SMD 5050 chips are generally three times brighter than SMD 3528 chips. Also, 5050 is widely used when the application for the LED strip requires multi color (RGB). For example, each 3528 emits approximately...

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What watt power transformer should I be using?

You can use a power supply like the one pictured, rated for the amount of LED's you will be driving. Read the specs on the lighting. They should tell you how many watts per a given length of the strip. So if it says, for example, that needs about 1 watt per meter, then a 15-foot section would require a 5 watt power supply. Take your total length of 76 feet, and divide by the strip's requirements. It wouldn't surprise me if you ended up somewhere in the ballpark of 20 to 30 watts.

Can I run 14 gauge wire directly from a circuit 15 amp breaker to the transformer?

No. You can't put the power supply inside the wall, and you can't bring the wire out of the wall without going through a junction box. The best way to do this is to put a cord on that power supply, and plug it into an existing outlet. There is no need whatsoever to add a new circuit or connect these directly to a circuit breaker.

Can I plug in...

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Our strip lights utilize energy efficient, and low-heat 12 volt Direct Current (DC) power, which is unfortunately not what most homes are wired with. That means you’ll need to use one of our LED power adapters if you want to use LED strip lights. So make sure never to plug your strip lights into a regular wall outlet, which uses Alternating Current (AC) power or you can damage the strips, or much more importantly, yourself! However, if you’ve wired your house with available DC power, then there’s no need to use an adapter!

I wish I had a single simple answer for you, but that’s just not the case. To find out how much energy your strips are using you’ll need to do a bit of math. First things first, you’ll need to find your strip light’s product page or the manual your LED light strips came with. There you can find a Watts per Foot estimate that can help you figure out just how much energy you’re saving by not using incandescent or florescent lights. Let’s say you’re in the...

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This is a very quick and simple primer on how to solder wires onto a common LED strip.

You will need:
Scissors or wire cutters (available for use at TechShop)
Wire strippers (available for use at TechShop)
Soldering Iron (available for use at TechShop)
Solder
"Helping hands" or clamps (available for use at TechShop)
Any length of LED strip

LED strips have two common features which are important to this Instructable. First, LED strips are divided into segments. The strips can be cut at any length provided the cut is on the line usually indicated by a small scissors icon. LED strips that are severed or cut between these lines will not function to the fullest. Second, LED strips have a positive (+) and a negative (-) soldering hard point that is on the strip. The convention does matter, since they run from DC power. There are a pair of these points at the beginning and the end of each segment.

Step 1: [photo1]
Cut the LED...

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Connect the positive LED strip wires to the switch.

Run the positive wire from each of your LED strips toward where you have placed your switch. Run the wires tight to the frame, securing them if you need to. Once all of the wires have enough length to reach your switch, use your wire strippers to remove a bit of the wire sheath, twist them all together, and solder them to the terminal you need to connect them to the positive terminal on the switch.

[12] If the positive and negative wire sheaths on your LED strips are connected, you can use an X-Acto knife or box cutter in the divot that runs parallel to the two wires to separate them since you will need to run them in opposite directions. If any of the wires end up being too short, you can use some of the additional wiring you have to make it longer. Just use the wire strippers to remove a bit of the end sheaths, twist each bunch together, and secure it well with electrical...
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Q: I didn't pay attention to + or - when I cut off excess 120 wire from transformer and hooked a new plug back on with them reversed. lights worked for about a day but won't work anymore. Did I burn out the LED ribbon lights? - by Dan (Portland, OR) A: Not sure what was cut, please call customer service 800-245-8131. Q: How many lumens/ft does this strip output? - by Andrew A: 1 cool white 1 ft strip is 34.8 lumens. More information can be found here: https://www.oznium.com/led-ribbon#tech Q: I'm building a display case and I wanted to use led strips to light it. The problem is that I want it to have a fairly decent CRI and most strips are either poor or unlisted.
Do you offer any high cri strips?
Can I wire an RGB unit to emit all colors? If so would it be a good CRI?
Do you know if combining different white temperatures would improve CRI? I know that was the thing to...
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first, thank you very much guys for hyperion, its awesome, very fast, very low cpu usage, the effect is very responsive. Ambilight is awesome tooooooooo.

I can confirm, that raspberry (tx pin) -> arduino -> ws2812b works perfectly. I have 208 leds, with boblight (momo) i had 0,5 - 1 sec delay and 50 % cpu usage. Pi overclocked to fast. I hope it will help to someone.

I bought 2812b by accident and i could save probably 40 hour working time and one arduino if i bought 2801 instead ...

----------------- hw wire -----------------
Connect Tx and GROUND from pi to Rx AND Ground on arduino. I'm powering arduino from leds stripe connector (so leds power supply). Data is on arduino PIN 11.

My biggest problem was to count/make header for adalight device ... My little knowledge cost me probably 20 hours working time and one broken arduino ... (orange led is not up, so i guess bootloader?, just green is on when i turn arduino on).

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Okay, there are many tutorials on Ambilight out there… but still, it was hard to find an easy way through this big jungle when I started on my research.

Which LEDs should I buy? Which ones are more popular and work well? There are questions upon questions to which you do not immediately have an answer.

In addition, many tutorials available out there are designed for the old Raspberry which brings about the question of whether they would also work for the Pi. 2.

It’s not that easy for beginners, which maybe don’t know about that stuff at all.

With this guide, I would like to explain every step it as easy as possible, all to recreate itself. If you like to craft stuff and your fingers are not all thumbs, then this project should not be a big challenge for you.

Info: Maybe some things in my photos look colorful for your taste. You can set and adjust everything later in the software according to your needs – from the brightness of the LEDs to the...

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Originally Posted by

brianchasalow

I'm trying to run as few cables to stage as possible.

Power delivery is always a big challenge in these large scale LED projects.

It's hard to know specifically what you're planning, but I can tell you one thing that absolutely will not work: only 3 conductors run 15+ feet with thousands of LEDs connected on the end.

Suppose you're targeting 2000 LEDs, similar to the 1920 I used in the OctoWS2811 demo. That's a pretty minimal (low res) number for video. Each LED uses between 0.8 to 50 mA. When they're all on fully white, the current is approx 100 amps. When they're all off, the current is about 1.6 amps. That's a massive change. Your power wiring needs to be designed so the voltage stays above 4.5V at all the LEDs. The strips themselves don't conduct so great, which means most of that voltage loss budget is used up on the strip. You need short, heavy gauge wires to carry the 5V power to the strips. On the demo, I used 32 pairs...

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>What kind of wire should I use for prototyping on Veroboards?

>For breadboards, I use thin, single strand copper wire because

>it's stiff and it sticks into the hole easily. However,

>veroboard does not require that stiffness and the stiffness

>may actually be detrimental?

As with many answers, the answer is 'it depends ...'

If using veroboard with copper strips, then what a lot of people do is use
insulated wire on the component side, poked through the holes, and soldered
to the tracks. Such wire can be single or multi-strand. Many people find
single strand is good for this, as it can be cut to length, the ends
stripped of insulation, and then the bare ends bent at the correct spacing
for the pair of holes that they are to go through.

Single strand wire from old telephone cabling is an ideal size for this
purpose, thinner stuff like wire wrap wire is too thin. Wire wrap wire is
...

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We love some good LED blinking as much as the next person but after years of LED-soldering we need something cooler to get us excited. Sure there are RGB LEDs and those are fun too but what comes after that? Well, we have the answer:

LED Strips

! These are

flexible

circuit boards with full color LEDs soldered on. They take a lot of LED-wiring-drudgery out of decorating a room, car, bicycle, costume, etc. The ones we carry are also waterproof (although not all are).

There are two basic kinds of LED strips, the "analog" kind and "digital" kind. Analog-type strips have all the LEDs connected in parallel and so it acts like one huge tri-color LED; you can set the entire strip to any color you want, but you can't control the individual LED's colors. They are very very easy to use and fairly inexpensive.

The Digital-type strips work in a different way. They have a chip for each LED, to use the strip you have to send digitally coded data to the chips....

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Using these RGB as a base example

Basic Electronics Crash Course

Volts * Amps = Watts Watts / Volt = Amps

General Information

These strips indeed usually come in lengths of 5 meters but you find suppliers that will give you 10/15/20 metres options also. Most only provide 5 meters because of the power they need to power up properly. So they try and sell you a cheap 12volt apadter used for each 5M strips but also the guys who sell them up to 20Metres does not mean you can use the entire length because the PCB traces might burn out caused by overloading them. You need to check with the seller how you can use them. The market is flooded with various makes and knock offs- so make sure you can get the specifications.

A lot of LED 5050 or 3258 each have different power ratings and usually come in 150 or 300 per 5 meters (30 / 60 per meter)

Powering LED strips

From the example provided earlier I will use single colour LED. The 5 meter white...

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ShiftPWM can be used to let an Arduino control many LED strips individually. The available RGB and HSV functions make it very easy to do color fades and rainbow effects. Because LED strips have a higher current than single LED’s, have integrated resistors and run on 12V, they require transistors to control them.

In this article I will use my RGB book shelves as an example to explain the details of driving LED strips with ShiftPWM.

First, here is a video of my Ikea Expedit book shelves. I have glued an LED strip in every shelve and 8 strips around the top, for a total of 24 LED strips and 72 PWM channels.

What’s in an LED strip?

LED strips are very simple. An LED strip has parallel segments of 3 LED’s of a color in series with one resistor. The forward voltage, for example, of 3 green LED’s in series is 9.6V, leaving 2.4V over the resistor to control the current. Lady Ada has a great explanation of LED strips on here website here.

Because LED...

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These LED strips are ultra bright, fun and glowy. There are 60 cool white LEDs per meter, and you can control the entire strip at once with any microcontroller and a power transistor. The way they are wired, you will need a 9-12VDC power supply and connect directly. If you want to dim the strip, use any NPN or N-channel MOSFET (although the big powerful kind is good for a large strip) and PWM the input.

We splurged and got the weatherproof kind with white background color. There's a 3M adhesive strip on the back which should stick to most smooth surfaces. Great for architectural lighting (under-counter or under-cabinet), decorating your bicycle or car, making lamps, etc. You'll need a lot of power to light these up, we suggest our 12V 5A supply. To connect it to a power supply, pick up a 2.1mm female jack and wire it to the strip with some heat shrink. For portable use, we suggest a 8xAA battery holder

Please Note: these strips are weatherproof so they'll be more...

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You thought it couldn't get better than our world-famous 32-LED-per-meter Digital LED strip but we will prove you wrong! These NeoPixel strips have 30 digitally-addressable pixel LEDs per meter and are very affordable and are only 12.5 mm wide, 10 mm if you remove the strip from the casing. This is the strip with white flex PCB, its identical to the black 30 LED/meter except it has a different color mask on the flex strip

There are some things to watch for:

These LED's use about 9.5 Watts max (~2 Amps @ 5V) per meter. The max rating is assuming all the LEDs are on full white, usually the actual current for colorful design is about 1/3 to 1/2 the max current. A good power supply such as our 5V 2A or 10A supply is key! Second, to get high density, the controller chip is inside the LED, which is kind of cool, but also means that the chip only uses a single pin for input and a single pin for output. The protocol used is very very timing-specific and can only be controlled...
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These LED strips are fun and glowy. There are 30 RGB LEDs per meter, and you can control the entire strip at once with any microcontroller and three transistors. The way they are wired, you will need a 9-12VDC power supply and then ground the R/G/B pins to turn on the three colors. Use any NPN or N-channel MOSFET (although the big powerful kind is good for a large strip) and PWM the inputs for color-mixing.

For powering, a good 12V supply is key. The one we carry will do well for fixed installations. For portable use, we suggest a 8xAA battery holder

We splurged and got the weatherproof kind with white background color. There's a 3M adhesive strip on the back which should stick to most smooth surfaces. Great for decorating your bike or art project, costuming or funky fashion.

Note: These strips are weatherproof so they'll be more rugged than uncoated strips, but they not designed for long term submersion in water, especially chlorinated water, or exposed to UV...

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Background:

I admit it, I am a geek when it comes to LED's and LED lighting. The fluorescent under counter lighting that came with my hose wasn't cutting it. Time for an upgrade! With a background in physics and surgical lighting, I knew I needed a good Color Temperature and Color Rendering Index (CRI). So what are Color Temperature and Color Rendering Index? They are two measures of what light looks like and how it makes things look when it illuminates them. Color Temperature can be read about

here

, and Color Rendering Index

here

. Color Temperature is the main “color” of the light based on the temperature of a black body radiator. It is measured in degrees Kelvin (Which is “zero” equals absolute zero and the same per degree increase as Centigrade.) A lower Color Temperature, say around 3700-3500K is considered “warm” light and a hotter one such as 7000K is considered “cool” because it is bluer. Yes, it is backwards from what you would think. There is a...

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We crammed ALL THE NEOPIXELS into this strip! An unbelievable 144 individually-controllable LED pixels on a flexible PCB. It's completely out of control and ready for you to blink. This strip has a white mask, and an extra heavy flex PCB.

These LED strips are even more fun and glowy. There are 144 RGB LEDs per meter, and you can control each LED individually! Yes, that's right, this is the digitally-addressable type of LED strip. You can set the color of each LED's red, green and blue component with 8-bit PWM precision (so 24-bit color per pixel). The LEDs are controlled by shift-registers that are chained up and down the strip so you can shorten or lengthen the strip. Only 1 digital out pin is required to send data. The PWM is built into each LED-chip so once you set the color you can stop talking to the strip and it will continue to PWM all the LEDs for you.

All your high-density LED dreams answered, yet there are a few things to watch for.

First up, the...
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