Why can the connections of a recessed light be buried in drywall, but not junction boxes?

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I concur with the submission by "C". Definitely check adjoining rooms. I have noticed the attic mentioned as a possibility for a j-box. Depending on area of the country and age of the house, the crawlspace under the house (if any) is also a possibility.

If no luck with any of the other suggestions, look into the following:
Measure the distance (along the wall) between the last working receptacle and the first dead one. If the house was built within the last 25 years or so, there should be no more than 12 feet between them (per National Electrical Code). If they are within this specification, then it is unlikely that you have a buried box (although I have seen it before). If they are not within this spec. then it is highly likely that you do.

It is not exact, but there is a method that will usually locate the buried box. Measure the height to the center of the other receptacle boxes in the room. Take a good straight-edge (a 4 ft level works great) along the wall, at...

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If you're interested in remodeling your kitchen, living room, bedroom or practically any other room in your home, you would be doing yourself a favor if you looked into learning how to install recessed lighting. Recessed lighting adds instant depth and dimension to your room by removing the need for space-eating lamps, and they can also be used to highlight works of art or other collectibles.

Understanding Recessed Lights

Check to see whether or not the ceiling where the fixtures are going to be installed is insulated or not. This is important because not all recessed lights are made for use in insulated ceilings.

If you have insulation in your ceiling, purchase either IC-rated recessed light fixtures (this type can be installed in insulated ceilings), or non-IC-rated fixtures, and when installing them, make sure that there is no insulation near the fixture for a minimum of at least three inches along all sides of the fixture to allow for heat...

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This question came up during a conversation that I was having with another home inspector during the last ASHI chapter meeting. We know that the covers for electrical boxes need to be accessible, but what if the box is located in an attic? Is it acceptable to bury the box in insulation? I said I’d research this info and get back to him, but I thought this might make for a good, short blog post topic. Also, I happened across a great photo of a junction box buried by vermiculite insulation while looking through old photos for last week’s blog post on vermiculite insulation.

As I’ve mentioned in past blog posts, I hate having to look up anything in the National Electrical Code (NEC). I don’t use that book enough to know exactly where to find what I’m looking for, so I rely on other books to tell me where to look. My first go-to book is typically Code Check Electrical, which is extremely well laid out and easy to use. I prefer the pdf version of this book because I can use word...

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Definition: Junction boxes are made from metal or plastic, measure 2 1/2 inches or 3 1/2 inches deep, and it's where the electrical wiring in your home goes to live when the wires are joined together. Boxes that measure 2 x 3 and 2 1/2 inches deep generally contain 3 wires. Boxes that measure 2 x 3 and 3 1/2 inches deep are made for five or more wires.

The purpose of a junction box is to provide a secure environment for electrical wires, known as hot (black), white (neutral) and grounding (green or copper).

There are other colors of wires used for secondary functions and for lighting. A ROMEX wire runs from the main electrical panel (or a subpanel) to the junction box.

At the junction box, wires are connected to the original ROMEX and distributed to other fixture boxes. All wire gauges should be the same.

It's like the communal meeting spot for electrical wires, where they connect before moving on. All junction boxes must be covered to be installed...

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When you don't have anything solid to which you can attach a light fixture, it's tempting to screw it to the drywall, but that's a mistake as well as a code violation. The fixture may appear stable, but an impact or even the weight of the fixture itself can be enough to loosen the screws, and the result is a fixture hanging precariously from the wall or ceiling. Light fixtures should be attached to electrical boxes nailed to a stud or rafter, but if your fixture doesn't weigh much, you can use a remodeling box that anchors to the drywall.

Turn off the breaker switch to the fixture. If other people are home, let them know you're working on the electricity and tape the switch in the off position with a prominent sign so that no one inadvertently turns it on while you're working.

Remove the screws that are still holding the fixture with a screwdriver and pull it far enough away from the wall or ceiling to access the wire connections. Remove the wire caps and untwist the...

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This is great idea, but fraught with potential problems.

1) electrics - cables, junction boxes should'nt be covered, it would be in breach of UK regs, unless you derate the power-handling. Even running cables in ducts and trunking should be calculated for loss of free air cooling, plus junction boxes need to be accessible for inspection.

2) planning ventilation is crucial - I've seen attic spaces wet through with condensation dripping from the tile underfelt, especially the old bitumen/sand/hessian stuff. People wonder where it comes from - people breathe moisture out, bowls of water, plants, cooking, washing etc. - propane heaters are the real wet-makers. Increasing insulation in the wrong place makes the attic colder, and vents with fly meshes soon choke up with dust.

3) cold air draughts - if you have any form of studwork construction, you will be amazed at how much cold air gets around - ceiling voids, wall voids are the highways, even electrical sockets...

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