Why does my furnace blower fan intermittently hesitate for a second then continue?


Edit: I just posted this same question, but did so as a guest. I then created a new account (same name), but now am unable to reply to comments on it because its technically not my post.

Bit of background: The furnace blower originally did not not turn off at all (or if it did, very rarely did so), even when set temps were reached or when the system was off (fan setting is set to auto, not on). The AC unit outside would shut off when the set temp was reached, but the fan inside continued to blow. I called a technician, who said the issue was probably a bad fan switch relay and it was replaced.

Now the fan does turn off, but it doesn't appear to remain off. Even when the system is set to off, the fan randomly turns back on and off every 10-15 minutes. The technician reinspected it but said there's no apparent reason it should be doing this. As the fan doesn't turn on for a while after the system is off, he wasn't really able to verify that the fan was doing this. He...

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You clearly have two separate issues here. Let's deal with one at a time. The furnace first. I need make and model off the furnace or can you tell me if the furnace has an integrated furnace controller. An integrated furnace controller, IFC is a fairly large, 6" x 6" PC board normally located in front of the main blower assembly. If the furnace is fairly new it should have an IFC. On the IFC, if you apply 24-volts, taken from the red terminal, to he green or G terminal (where all other thermostat wires are connected) the fan will start and run, normally on high speed, and continue to run as long as the IFC sees 24-volts on the G terminal. This should not interfere with the other normal operations of the furnace and thermostat.

The next control element to tackle is when to start this independent fan operation. I would recommend to start it whenever hot water is being deliver from the remote source. You will need something like this White Rogers #1609-101 remote bulb...

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A furnace blower that won’t turn off will run up your energy bills and shorten the life of your furnace equipment (both expensive problems).

So if your furnace blower won’t turn off and you want to fix it, check first for:

A thermostat that’s set incorrectly A fan limit switch that’s in its “continuous on” mode

We’ll show you exactly what to look for when troubleshooting your thermostat and fan limit switch and explain when you’ll need a professional to fix your furnace.

Already know you need a professional? Just contact us and we’ll send out a tech right away.

First, check your thermostat settings

Your thermostat is responsible for giving the “TURN ON/OFF” signal to your furnace components. So if your blower fan just won’t stop running, the first place to check is at the thermostat.

Two settings that you’ll want to check are:

1) The fan setting

Your thermostat fan setting should be set to AUTO, not ON. You see, ON forces...

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One of those little but important things you may have taken for granted I the number of times a good furnace fan should turn on and off. It is such a part of your life that you hardly bother, save for the passive noticing on the blinking lights. Nevertheless, something has struck your attention and is causing you a lot of concern.

Of late, your durance blower has been turning on and off more often than your car indicator lights. The following are possible reasons behind your furnace mischief:

Faulty thermostat

If your furnace is turning on and off more frequently than you can blink your eyes, you should check the thermostat. You may not be able to comprehend the modus operandi of your machine but before you call in a technician, look out for that little device that regulates the amount of heat in the furnace. Ensure that it is working with the correct settings as per the manual that came with it. You may also need to move it away from direct heat sources.

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When your thermostat is set to AUTO, your furnace fan should blow only when your furnace is in the middle of a heating cycle. But if your fan runs constantly, regardless of whether your furnace is heating, that’s not normal.

So, what’s causing it to run continuously? Well, if your furnace blower fan won’t stop running, you could have any of the following problems:

You’re using the wrong thermostat fan settingYour fan limit switch is on “manual override”There’s a shorted thermostat wireThere’s a shorted wire at the fan limit switch

We know. That’s a lot of possible problems. But don’t worry, we’ll walk you through some troubleshooting steps so that you can pinpoint your issue. We’ll also let you know when you’ll need a professional to solve the problem.

Live in the Phoenix area and need a tech now? Just contact us and we’ll send a professional over immediately.

First, check your thermostat settings

First off, let’s confirm that your thermostat is...

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HVAC blower fan testing & diagnostic questions & answers:

Reader questions & responses help diagnose trouble with the blower fan or air handler fan used in both air conditioning and heating systems.

This article series discusses how to inspect and test a heating or air conditioning indoor air handler blower fan that is not working. We also discuss convector unit fans and we suggest diagnostic steps for squirrel cage blower fan squeaks and noises.

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Heating or Air Conditioner / Heat Pump Blower Fan Testing & Diagnostic Procedures

Air Handler Blower fan motor RUNS BACKWARDS

The cause of a backwards-running fan (and some other electric motors) could be a bad start-run capacitor


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We have a "York Diamond 90" gas-fired furnace that was working well until today.

There seems to be something wrong with the gas flow/valve, burner, or sensor.

I can see the electronic ignition element turning white hot, then hear the gas valve click on, then see the blue gas flames light for a second or two before sputtering out. This cycle repeats itself several times until, the system "gives up" (or I guess locks out) at which point the blower just continues to blow cold air forever and no further ignition attempts are made. The blower continues to blow even if I shut off the thermostat

Interestingly, if I cycle off the power (even just for a second or two), the furnace will start up normally and ignite the burners properly. The burner will continue to fire for a

*couple of minutes*

before blowing out at which point it goes into the (failed) cycle of trying to relight a couple of times before finally giving up and again leaving me in the stuck state...

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Problem: I have the following problem, but only intermittently. It usually happens about every tenth time or so that the furnace goes off, but it has been happening less frequently lately. Not sure why.
I have a Carrier 58DH. The call for heat goes, the gas ignites, the unit heats up, but then the blower doesn’t engage. After a while, the safety switch kicks in and turns off the unit which is overheated. There is also a burn smell in the house. I wait for the unit to cool down, trip the reset button on the top of the blower, turn the furnace back on, and it generally operates well for a number of cycles.
Any idea what might be wrong? I had the control panel changed out on this unit about five years ago. I know it is an older unit (1984), but I can’t afford a new one at the moment.
Thanks, Ron

Answer: The burn smell could either be caused by the heat exchanger getting real hot and burning the old dust off the heat exchanger or the blower motor could be getting...

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Here is a manual that has the parts break down. Click Here=>

Goodman GMS90703BXA

Sounds to me that your gas valve is not responding to the thermostat calling for heat. Double check gas valve settings and also have someone near switch the heat on to say about 90 degrees. You should hear a relay click sound to pull the gas valve open. Also Click Here=>

Appliance 991 Help Forum

That manual that is on that page has all needed information a tech or installer will need so please read carefully and use caution. I find that very odd that the fan will run before the heat exchanger reaches higher temperatures. Indicating a possable electronic failure. It must wait until hot enough before fan comes on. In left sidebar and 7 links down is the diagnostics


. Click and save if you like. Contact me here or from that site and I will try my best to assist you while we try to


out why the electronics is allowing fan to run first. There are different models on...

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I was at a dinner party last night and two guests described how their HVAC reps told them to run their furnace blowers 100% of the time. The HVAC reps reasons for the recommendation, as relayed by the dinner guests, were:

1. continuous running reduces the wear and tear on the blower motor that cycling on and off causes, thereby avoiding an earlier motor replacement

2. circulating the air around the home provides better balanced temperatures throughout the home and,

3. continuous air flow would provide cleaner air due to the continuous filtering.

We live in northern Michigan and are a heating dominate climate. I am curious to hear from the HVAC professionals about what they recommend to their clients and why. At the moment I don't buy the above arguments and feel those customers end up paying more in energy costs for little benefit. However I do understand there is no disputing tastes when talking about perceived comfort. Also if anyone knows...

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If you’ve read our articles, then you know that we are a small, U.S. Veteran-Owned heating and air conditioning company, and pride ourselves on giving people honest, straight answers to their questions. This will be no different – if your furnace is not blowing air on a cold day, it can be concerning. We get more and more furnace questions this time of the year, as temperatures drop, and people transition from air conditioning to heating. But what should you do if your problem is a furnace not blowing air? We have already addressed what to do if you have a furnace blowing cold air, or when your furnace keeps turning on and off repeatedly in different posts, but in this article we will be addressing what to do if your furnace is not blowing air through your ducts at all. As with many of these furnace problems, there are many reasons for your furnace to stop blowing air, some of which you can troubleshoot yourself and some of which will require a licensed HVAC contractor. In this...

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NOTE: This tutorial covers the conventional gas furnace (up to 89% AFUE). For a tutorial that supplements this tutorial and covers issues unique to the high efficiency gas furnace (90% AFUE and above), see Troubleshooting a High Efficiency Condensing Furnace.

The Conventional Gas Furnace

The gas furnace is an appliance looking like a large box that does the following:

takes in cold air,cleans it with an air filter,heats it up with a gas burner using a steel heat exchanger,distributes the warm air... with a blower motor through your home's ductwork

The heated air then cools down in your home's various rooms and returns to the furnace through return air grills and ductwork.

The cold returning air enters back through the air filter into the furnace to complete another heating loop.

Sometimes there is a humidifier mounted on the furnace or the return air ductwork.

Furnaces come in different efficiencies measured in AFUE.

Once in a while...

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Gas Furnace Sequence Of Operation | RicksDIY.com

Today I want to give you a basic Sequence Of Operation for a standard gas furnace aka 80% Efficiency furnaces. This will not apply to every single one out there but typically will cover about 90% of what you will find.

The Furnace is in standby mode waiting for a call for heat, the Thermostat has a call for heat, which closes a switch inside the thermostat and sends 24 Volts to the W (Heat) Terminal on the control board. The Inducer draft/combustion blower motor then starts. The Air flow switch will then close and complete a circuit through the safeties as long as everything is okay. Depending on the furnace either the Hot Surface Igniter (HSI) or Spark Igniter will start. If you have a standing pilot then skip this part. The Gas Valve will open and the burner will ignite, once the flame sensor senses flame it shuts off the ignition source, if it doesn’t sense a flame it shuts the gas valve off and then tries again...
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You wake up in the morning, or come home from work, and you can instantly tell something is wrong. The house is cold. You can hear the furnace running, and you can even feel air coming out of the registers. But it’s not hot air coming out, it’s cold! Well, it’s not COLD cold, it’s just room temperature. As if the furnace is just recirculating the air in your house without actually heating it.

Which is probably exactly what’s happening.

You did the right thing by running to the Internet to solve your problem. I’m glad it brought you here.

This same thing happened to me many years ago, before I got into doing my own home maintenance (and before blogs existed), back when I was still (over-)paying repair guys to come to my house to fix stuff (I’ve told this story before in this Home Maintenance Parts post). It was a dark and stormy night. No, seriously. It was one of the coldest winters I can remember in Seattle, and my furnace had stopped blowing warm air. The...

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Furnace Blower that Doesn't Need Electricity

An inexpensive Way to Generate Your Own Electricity!

I actually invented these two devices in 1976 as an aspect of the design of the JUCA Super Fireplaces. At that time, people loved the woodstove products, but about the only complaint we ever heard (from the rural buyers who often had power outages) was that they still needed electricity for the blower. This invention solved that!

It works perfectly, it is simple, it is fairly inexpensive. Except for one detail, it would be nearly perfect. More on that later!

It was similar to the ancient steam-driven spinning device invented by Hero thousands of years ago.

Inside the firebox of any furnace, woodstove or fireplace, a small water reservoir (between a quart and a half gallon capacity) is mounted such that it is (ideally) 6" above the flames. (Closer than that and the presence of the 'cold' tank would affect the burning of the fire.) The tank needs to be extremely...

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January 22, 2015

Today we are talking about furnaces and what to do when they aren’t working and common questions. As I was doing my research for this blog post, I stumbled across this video clip from Home Alone that pretty much sums up how I used to feel about furnaces.

Now, I know the video shows a radiator and we are talking about furnaces today, but who isn’t a little nervous when facing an unknown machine that’s bigger then we are, produces fire (which our mother told us not to play with since we were little), and makes funny noises? Well, you don’t have to worry about the unknown any more. I’ve researched the top 10 questions about furnaces and asked our technicians for the answers.

1) Why is my furnace not working?

When your furnace isn’t working it could be several things. Here are a few things you can check before calling a technician:

At the Thermostat

Is there a display showing? If your thermostat is electronic, are the batteries...
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Often the best way to figure out what is wrong with something is to know how it is supposed to work. If you know the sequence of operations, you can pinpoint where the sequence is being disrupted. Your furnace is no exception to the rule.

When your furnace is called into action by the thermostat, there is a rhyme and reason to the procedure it follows in safely turning itself on. Next time your furnace doesn't respond to the call, you will be able to see where the problem lies, and you can either decide that it is within your skills and resources to repair it, or that you need a professional HVAC technician to handle the issue for you.

The following discussion can save you time and money, whether you fix the problem yourself, or end up showing the problem to your service technician.

NOTE: Furnaces burn natural gas, and use electricity, normally 120 volts; both of these present hazards. As always, be sure the power is shut off to your unit before you do any work...

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I'm not any kind of an expert like these guys, but from my own experience...
It struck me that your troubles began almost immediately after you installed the new digital thermostat.
If the furnace worked o.k. on the old thermostat, you may have encountered a problem we did in a similar "upgrade"- the new electronic thermostat was faulty. We established that fact by re-installing the old 'stat...

Also, if the new thermostat is programmable, do make sure that you haven't somehow inadvertently "programmed" it to do what it's doing!
That's another mistake that we've made

Good luck




I'd be reluctant to remove a properly functioning furnace unless I absolutely had to- if you can see the mouse droppings, perhaps you could adapt a piece of hose, attach it to your vacuum cleaner, and clean them out that way...

The air you're feeling in the furnace area is likely just coming...

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