Wiring of two fans with individual switches and outlets

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You currently have two cables in the box. One is the power source, and has just a black (hot), a white (neutral) and a bare (ground) wire. The second cable has a black (hot), a red (hot), a white (neutral) and a bare (ground).

As currently wired, the incoming black is attached to the outgoing black and to the switch via a pigtail. This makes the unswitched half of the outlet always live and provides a hot connection to the switch. The red wire is attached to the other side of the switch and provides a switched hot to the second part of the outlet. The neutrals are connected together in the box and the white wire at the outlet itself covers both halves of the switch (only the hot side has separate connections).

Adding other switched lines is fairly straightforward (this assumes that you have sufficient amperage to cover the additional fan and light).

As you surmised, you need a three wire (plus ground) cable. The new white is connected to the existing whites. If...

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Last week I described how an outlet should be wired for switch control when the voltage enters the circuit at the outlet. This setup is how our master bedroom was wired before I installed an overhead ceiling fan. As promised, I detail below how to modify this wiring setup with minimal effort so that the switch can instead control an overhead fixture. Later this week, I’ll post some before and after pics from our ceiling fan installation. Before we get started, let’s briefly review last week’s diagram:

Review of Switched Outlet Wiring (Power Enters at the Outlet)

In this diagram, voltage enters the circuit at location (A) in a standard 2-wire (+ground) Romex. The white neutral wire from this Romex is connected directly to the silver terminals on the receptacle (E), and the black hot wire is connected to the white wire running to the switch (B). The white and black wires from this Romex are connected to the switch (C). The black wire at the switch is now...

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I'm replacing the old switches and outlets in my house (built and probably wired in 1984) with new ones.

What I've encountered is that the old switches and outlets were often configured such that the wires would go into the "stab terminals" (the holes in the back of the device) and only around the screws if the hole was already occupied. This makes sense, but in my searches I've found a lot of people saying to never use the holes because it's bad form. That's probably just an opinion, but...

...even if I wanted to use them, I can't -- the wires themselves are extremely thick and they don't fit into the holes on my new devices. As a result, in situations where I need to get two wires connected to the same screw, I do just that -- I hook/pigtail two wires under one screw and get that in as tightly as I can.

Is this safe? I've never wired switches and outlets before so this is brand new to me. I am of course turning off the power and checking for connectivity...

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Edit Article

Three Parts:Removing Old SwitchesInstalling a Double SwitchTroubleshootingCommunity Q&A

A double-switch allows you to operate two lights or appliances from the same location. Double switches, sometimes called "double pole," allow you to separately control the power being sent to multiple places from the same switch. For example, you might want to turn on a bathroom light separately from the ceiling fan. To wire a double switch, you'll need to cut the power, remove the old switch, then feed and connect the wires into the double switch fixture. Though it is not difficult to wire a double switch, careful attention to safety is crucial to prevent injury.

Note: This article only describes installing the switch itself, not rewiring two conjoined feeds that need to be separated. If you are trying to separate two lights that use the same wiring, as opposed to two already separate sources, you will likely need a trained...

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Ceiling Fan Wiring

We are in desperate need of help! We are trying to install a ceiling fan with a light kit and a wall switch that control both the light and the fan separately. The problem is that we have three wires plus the ground coming from the ceiling instead of the two wires and ground stated in the instructions.

The wires from the ceiling are red, black, and white. We tested them and the red is hot from the light switch and the black is hot also. The fan/light switch we purchased has a controller that wires directly to the ceiling. The top of the controller has two wires, black and white. The bottom of the controller that goes to the fan has white, black, and red wires. Here we wired black to black, white to white, and red to the black/white wire as the instructions said for the light kit. The ground from the ceiling is threaded through the middle of the controller and connected to the two green wires.

The problem is that we don't know how to...

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If all you have is single-phase 240-volt current and you need 480-volt three-phase current, you can step the voltage up to 480 volts using a transformer. Once at 480 volts, the single-phase current must be converted to three-phase using a phase converter. Rotary phase converters use an electric motor with capacitors to generate two additional phases of current, while static converters use electronics to do the same thing. One possible application is running three-phase motors on shop equipment at 480 volts.

Turn off power to the disconnect switch that will supply the step-up transformer and move the switch to the off position. Remove the cover on the disconnect switch to expose the load terminals. Cut a piece of cable to run from the switch to the transformer and strip 6 inches of sheathing from each end with the cable knife. Insert the cable into the switch through the cable clamp so that 1/4 in of sheathing on the cable is inside the box. Tighten the cable...

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So the other day I saw this instructable on how to make an easy power station using an IKEA box:


The-IKEA-charging-box---no-more-cable-mess!

I definitely needed something similar, so I went and bought one of those boxes at IKEA, but it stood in my office for a couple of weeks. Last weekend I finally decided to have a go at it. One major difference I wanted for my charging station: the ability to turn off each power supply individually instead of having all on while charging a single device. That meant going to the electronic store and buy 4 switches (there were nicer models, but they didn't have 4 identical ones, so I just got these).

Total cost for the project: 11,24 Euros

Ikea box: 1,99 Euros
Ikea box lid: 1,25 Euros
4 switches: 4 x 1,00 Euros
4 plugs: 4 x 1,00 Euros

I believe I could have gotten the switches and plugs slightly cheaper if I had looked around.
The rest of the parts I had them at home. Should be fairly cheap...

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Use Four Key Tools for Safe and Fast Wiring

Here are four must-have tools if you plan to wire many switches and outlets:

Voltage tester. You can pick one up for a few bucks and use it to test for hot wires or to find a neutral. Just touch the probes between a hot and a neutral, or between two hot wires. The tester will light up if the wires are “hot.” The tester shown also tests for 240 volts.

Combination sheath and wire stripper. In addition to slots for stripping insulation from 14- and 12-gauge wire, it has slots to strip the sheathing from 14- and 12-gauge nonmetallic cable.

Voltage “sniffer.” The beauty of this tool is that you don't have to touch bare wires to see if they're hot. Just hold it near any wire or cable to see if it's energized. Use a noncontact voltage tester like this to double-check that all wires in a box are “dead” after turning off the circuit breaker.

GFCI receptacle tester. Just plug it into any GFCI outlet and the...

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–Check local regulations for restrictions and permit requirements before beginning electrical work–

This page contains wiring diagrams for two outlets in one box. Included are arrangements for 2 receptacles in one box, a switch and receptacle outlet in one box, and 2 switches in the same box. Both parallel and series wiring arrangements are included.

Parallel Wiring Two Outlet in One Box

In this diagram, two duplex receptacle outlets are wired in parallel in one double-gang box. With this wiring, the two outlets are separated so if one fails the other will still work.

Series Wiring Two Outlets in One Box

Here two receptacles are wired in series in one outlet box. With this arrangement, if receptacle #1 fails, receptacle #2 may also fail if failure is due to physical damage. However, if the copper tab conductors between the terminals remain intact, even if #1 stops functioning, receptacle #2 will probably still work.

Two Receptacles,...

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Larger image

1 switch and 2 lights


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Review: Basic 120V and 240V wiring

120Volt circuit requires 2 wires to complete circuit
120Volt requires Hot and Neutral
When installing a switch, the Hot wire is cut, and switch installed.
Switches always turn the Hot wire on-off.

Neutral wires are never connected to switch
Only the hot wire is turned on-off. The neutral is always continuous between Load and breaker box

240Volt circuit also requires 2 wires to complete circuit
240Volt requires Hot1 and Hot2.
No Neutral wire is involved in 240Volt circuit
Read more
240Volt circuit can be turned on-off by cutting power to either Hot1 or Hot2
Double-pole Switches can turn both Hot wires on-off.

Resources:
Electricity from pole to breaker box
How to replace circuit breaker
How to select wire size and breaker size
Maximum 12 boxes per 120volt circuit

3-way...
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An electrical switch is a component that diverts electric current from one conductor to another by breaking an electrical circuit. One of the most common forms of a switch is an electromechanical device that is operated manually and has electrical contacts that are connected to external circuits. There are two states in which each of these set of contacts operate. One is “closed” which means electricity flows between the contacts because they are touching. The other is “open” which indicates that there is a separation between the contacts and the switch is not conducting current.

Listed below are a few questions answered by electricians on electrical switch repair related issues.

My ceiling fan fixture sparked when I turned on an electrical switch in my mobile home. Now I don’t have power in this fan fixture, the fan and light in the bathroom, the light in the hall, and one additional room. How can I fix the problem?

Details of the problem:

I checked...

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I am in the process of replacing my family room fans and I am confusing myself. I took pictures before taking the fans down to get the wiring correct, but between bad pics and second guessing myself, I am not positive how the wiring should look. Here is the situation...

I have my power coming from the panel into Fan A. From Fan A there is a line running to a light/fan combo switch. There is also a line that runs to an outlet. Lastly, there is the line the runs to Fan B.

Fan B has a line going to it's own light/fan combo switch and another line going to an outlet.

The pics wouldn't upload, but here is a diagram that I can figure out from the pics and other wiring diagrams I came across online. What needs to be changed? Sorry for the messy diagram...

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Here is a quesion from a site visitor asking how to wire a ceiling fan and light kit with separate control switches for the fan and the light.

Question: I would like to wire two ceiling fans — the power comes into the box first — I would also like to have two separate switches for lights and fans. Any diagrams would be helpful. Thanks for your help.

Answer: In the question above, I am assuming that this is a new installation, and as I understand the question, the power now comes in to the first ceiling box intended for mounting the ceiling fan. In roughing in wiring for a ceiling box that has a potential to have a ceiling fan installed either now, or in the future, it prudent to wire the circuit for separate control of the fan and the light kit on individual switches.

Make sure you mount the ceiling outlet boxes firmly, and with extra support so as to handle the additional weight of the fan. Check with your local electrical and building inspector, as well as...

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Connecting two ceiling fans to the same branch circuit is an easy project even for the beginner. Like is the case with many electrical projects that require running new electrical wiring, the most difficult part of this project will be running the new nonmetallic sheathed cable from one point to the next. When connecting two fans to the same circuit and controlled by one set of switches, you simply connect the fans' neutral wires, their ground wires and their hot wires in parallel.

Turn off the branch circuit breaker supplying power to the fan circuit that you will be working on. Use the noncontact voltage tester to make sure that the fan outlet boxes are actually safe to work in. In some cases, there may be more than one circuit running through the outlet boxes, so you may have to turn off more than just one circuit breaker before working inside the boxes.

Remove the two ceiling fans from their mounting, disconnect their circuit wires and set them out of the way. As...

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Ceiling fans reduce the costs of heating and cooling your home. All modern ceiling fans are reversible. Operating in the clockwise direction -- the updraft direction -- during the winter months, they help circulate the warm air throughout the room, reducing the length of time your furnace needs to run. Run in the counterclockwise direction, they help cool your home in the summer months by producing a gentle downward flow of cool air. Modern ceiling fans draw so little current that they can easily be connected to an existing outlet without worry of overloading the circuit.

Turn off the circuit breaker serving the outlet circuit that you will be connecting to. Check the outlet with the noncontact voltage tester to be sure you have turned off the correct breaker.

Mark the spot on the ceiling where the fan is to be installed. Use the stud finder to locate the two adjacent joists and mark a spot halfway between them to locate the fan box. Draw an outline around the fan box...

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–Check local regulations for restrictions and permit requirements before beginning electrical work–

This page contains wiring diagrams for household light switches and includes a switch loop, single-pole switches, light dimmer, and a few choices for wiring a combo switch/outlet device. Also included are wiring arrangements for multiple light fixtures controlled by one switch, and a split receptacle controlled by two switches.

Wiring a Switch Loop

When the electrical source originates at a light fixture and it's controlled from a remote location, a switch loop is used. The circuit pictured here is wired with 2-conductor cable running from the light to the switch location. The white cable wire in this switch loop is wrapped with black tape and connected to the bottom terminal on SW1 and the hot source at the light. The black wire is connected to the top terminal on SW1 and the hot terminal on the light fixture. The neutral from the source is connected directly...

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